Mercedes Benz replacement battery  

 replacement battery

 What to look for in buying a new battery:

Most auto batteries are made by just three manufacturers, Delphi, Exide, and Johnson Controls Industries. Each makes batteries sold under several different brand names. Delphi makes ACDelco and some EverStart (Wal-Mart) models. Exide makes Champion, Exide, Napa, and some EverStart batteries. Johnson Controls makes Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStarts.

What do I honestly think is the best way to buy a battery? Call 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES and tell them you need a battery. They'll send a guy in a truck, who will remove your old battery, install the "correct" new battery, synchronize all your electronics, and haul away the old one - all for the retail price of the battery. That's right, no delivery fee, no installation fee, nothing other than the price of the battery. That's for any Mercedes-Benz. They don't care if the car is 4 years old or 40 years old. They also don't care if you're the original owner, what day it is, or what time it is. If your battery dies and you don't want to buy one Mercedes-Benz roadside assistance will properly jump-start your car, bring you a few gallons of fuel, or change a flat tire using your spare, all free of charge. If every manufacturer was like Mercedes-Benz, companies that sell roadside assistance insurance would be out of business.

If you decide to buy a battery and install it, get a good one. Don't go cheap and find yourself stuck in minus 20 degree weather, or on the side of the road when it's 115 in the shade. How do you tell whether a battery is any good? The most important features to look for will be dependant on where you live. If you live someplace cold, it will be cold cranking amps. If you live somewhere hot, it will be reserve capacity.

Cold Cranking Amps are commonly listed as a battery's CCA rating. Cold cranking amps are the discharge load, measured in amps, that a fully charged battery at 0 degrees F can deliver for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage above 7.2 volts. Every car has a cold cranking amperage requirement. That requirement can easily be seen by looking at the sticker on the original equipment battery in your car. The battery will have the word "Kaltstarstrom" followed by a number The literal translation for Kaltstarstrom is "cold start current". Based on the tag on my battery, mine has 450 CCA. If you no longer have the original equipment battery, you can ask your dealer's parts department. In colder climates, the higher the cold cranking amperage rating, the lower your chances of getting stuck someplace and freezing to death.

In hot climates, buying batteries with double or triple the original cold cranking amperage rating is a waste of money. That's because in hot climates, reserve capacity is king. Reserve capacity is frequently referred to as RC. Reserve capacity is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage falls below 10.5 volts. More RC is better, even in cold weather. For example, if your car has a 360 cold cranking amp requirement, then a battery with a 450 cold cranking amp rating with a 120 minute reserve capacity is much better than one with 850 cold cranking amps and only a 90 minute reserve capacity. Why do you need reserve capacity? Because something has to power your clock, alarm, courtesy lights, delayed headlamps, radio, and all those other electrical gizmos that require power after the car is turned off.

So what else is important?

* A fresh battery would be nice. Fresh as in, one that hasn't been sitting on the shelf for the past two years. I've seen the battery rack at my local Mercedes-Benz dealer. They always load from the back and pull from the front. That ensures they rotate through their stock. The Mercedes-Benz roadside assistance truck gets their batteries from dealers. They pulls those batteries from the front as well.
* How about a battery that fits in the hole the original battery came out of? I don't know about your battery, but the one in my Mercedes-Benz is HUGE. The replacement shouldn't require some special strap to hold it in place, or a block of wood to make up for the excess room. On the other hand, it shouldn't be some oversized bus battery because that's the closest thing they had in stock. Think of a battery as you would a pair of shoes. You wouldn't buy some oversized clown shoes or leave the store wearing something that's four sizes too small. It should "fit".
* The original battery in a Mercedes-Benz has a vent tube. Your new battery should have a vent tube. Don't listen to someone who says, "It'll be OK without one." If it was OK, Mercedes-Benz wouldn't have spent the money to install vent tubes in every car they make.
* Lastly, this is just a battery. It shouldn't cost four zillion dollars. Some people see you drive up in a Mercedes-Benz and think you're supposed to pay extra. Right about now some people may say, didn't you just recommend paying retail for a "Mercedes-Benz" battery? Consider this - Interstate is a large battery manufacturer. They advertise that they are the "#1 replacement battery brand in the United States". List price on an Interstate MTP-93 battery, which is what Interstate claims is the correct battery for my car, is $138.95. The battery I bought from Mercedes-Benz has a retail price of $118. That's before my Mercedes Benz Club of America discount. So for $20 less, someone will deliver and install a new battery, and if you're a member of the Mercedes Benz Club of America, you get a discount on top of that. Did I mention that the Mercedes-Benz battery is the correct one?

If you absolutely, positively insist on changing the battery yourself, here's one way to do it without having to reload the security code in the radio, re-sync the express windows, reset the memory in your seats, reset the sunroof, and clear the ESP error - a charger can be connected to the hot wire under the hood before disconnecting the battery in the trunk. After the new battery is hooked up, disconnect the battery charger. The car never actually lost power, so there was nothing to reset.

The red arrow points to a cover. On a CLK, there is a hot wire underneath where one could make the positive connection. The positive wire is in different places on different models. The negative can be hooked to just about anywhere else.

Battery Replacement On My Mercedes E320

hello all,
i think, i may need to replace the battery on my mercedes e320 soon. i have not found the battery listed in a couple of parts houses. Is it a factory only replacement or available from other sources???

Mon Apr 02, 2007 2:06 am View user's profile Send private message
FookBu
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The battery is placed under the rear seat. Good luck!!!

 

It depends on what you want to do, MB batteries are sourced worldwide, they were Varta out of Germany at one time , they are now made in Spain. If you call 1800 FORMERCEDES, Road Aid will come out and replace your battery at your home or work, and recode everything. There is no charge for labor unless yoy drive into the dealer. They typically will charge over the counter price for the battery, and most dealers are quite honest with a average charge of $150 there are others who make "up" their price. I would call when the tech calls you back ask $. otherwise cancell. They provide lifetime emergency, tire, fuel and jump starts at no charge on any MB, they have been known to do minor repairs but will charge. Its all detailed in your owners manual. MB batteries are only sold thru MB, there are many that will work the venting is important since it is under the seat.

Mercedes Benz Battery Source ?
Anybody know of a source for replacement batteries for an MB C240?

I checked our hosts site and didn't find any available.

The dealer is quoting $380 which I almost choked on.

TIA.
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Any Interstate Battery dealer will sell you a better one than the dealers' for less than half that.

While you are at it, does anyone know where I can find the cardboard trunk tray for that same C-class MB? (2000 C230K)
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I picked up one for Mums benz at Costco for ~$75.
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Exactly. Why would you buy a battery from the dealer? It's just a battery. An Interstate is a better battery, will last longer, and is $120 or so.
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Trying to do some research now but something to do with unique type of battery and external venting for the 2001 C class ???

I was going to call the local Pep Boys and Auto Zone in the morning but was just curious about an on-line price check tonight.

Thanks.
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I have that exact same car, and replaced the battery myself. There is absolutely nothing special about the battery. It's just a regular old 12V auto battery.

There is an issue, however, with the early 2000's MBs and disconnecting the battery. I'm not up on all of it, but it can cause all sorts of problems! I read about the problems before replacing mine, and was nervous about problems occurring. When I did mine, sure enough, after I got the new one in, I had all sorts of electrical errors, blinkers didn't work, etc. As it turned out, putting the new battery in caused some module in the rear trunk to blow out ("SAM module?")

From what I read, this is not entirely uncommon with those cars, and there reaily isn't any way to prevent it - it may happen or it may not. (Although I would think that if you disconnected the SAM module before doing the battery swap, that would protect the SAM module, but I'm not sure).

It has nothing to do with the replacement battery (i.e., whether you use a "factory" battery or not makes no difference), but it has to do with disconnecting the old one and reconnecting the new one.

Luckily mine was under extended warranty still, so it didn't cost anything to get the module replaced. I think it was around a $350 part. Supposedly, the new replacement SAM module won't have the same problem.
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Here's the Interstate version:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...CRank%7C1&js=1
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Thanks for the headsup Carrman ... I'll research that as well.

Wouldn't you know Chris the local Firestone sells interstate batteries
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use a memory saver to prevent those problems, and prevent erasing computer settings. This is a 9 volt battery that gets plugged into the cigarette lighter.
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Autozone might be cheaper than Interstate. They are for Boxsters. Go to the websites and find the battery for your car. The site will tell you the nearest dealer.

To retain computer memory, keep a trickle charger connected to the battery leads while disconnecting the old battery and installing the new one.
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I would check out benzworld. Keep in mind that if you call the roadside service, mercedes will install the battery and only charge the cost of the battery. No delivery charge or installation charge, but $380 is way too much for the battery. I had the battery in our old ML320 replaced for $110 (dealer). The slk has an interstate in it and the 300 SEL battery I picked up at Advance Auto.
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My BMW 540 required an external vent battery due to it's under the rear seat location, I picked one up for under $100 at Autozone. Just a battery, nothing exotic about it.
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Didn't the C's have a notorious problem with the stepper motors getting unsynchronized because the batteries would die, and owners would recharge them or put in new batteries themselves? If the stepper motors become unsynched, some plastic linkage piece would break resulting in an expensive fix because the entire dash board needs to come out. Another issue with the earlier C's was the seat control module (under the seat) slowly drain the battery, you may want to make sure that's not causing an unwanted drain.
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On our ML320, when I changed the battery, I had to turn the steering wheel lock to lock and back to center to get clear of some ABS computer faults. That and reset the radio code. Better to have the 9v cig lighter kit, no worries then as long as you don't wait too long.
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You could connect a battery charger to the car battery leads while disconnecting and replacing the battery.

In this wat the car would never know the battery was removed and all the magic modules would sleep on undisturbed.
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Exide, the world’s oldest and most experienced electric-storage battery manufacturer, introduces an advanced lead-acid battery that is so rugged, it can survive virtually any obstacle the road throws at it, without leaking acid. The battery is Exide Select Orbital, or as Bob Lutz, chairman, president and CEO of Exide, and former president of Chrysler, refers to it, the Dodge Viper of batteries.

The development work on the sealed-lead battery was begun in 1967 by subsidiaries of The Gates Corp., with the first commercial uses introduced in the early ’70s. Optima Batteries then pioneered spiral wound cell technology during the late ’80s for use in the automotive industries. The SpiralCell design was a radical departure from conventional lead-acid storage batteries.

The Exide Select Orbital uses tightly wound layers of orbitec grids and acid-permeated vitreous separators formed into circular cells. In other words, the Exide Select Orbital will never leak acid even if it’s cracked, broken or punctured. The vitreous separators absorb acid the same way a paper towel absorbs water. The result is no free-flowing electrolyte to leak.

One of the other attributes of this battery is its 18-month shelf life. Its unique internal construction keeps it functional even after months of non-use. The long life of the battery benefits both retailers, who can be confident of stocking fresh batteries on their shelves, and seasonal car buffs, who are more likely to let their starting batteries sit unused for months at a time.

The tightly wound orbitec grids resist vibration to stop plate shedding, and positive grid disintegration. It also has exceptional durability in both high-heat and subzero climates.

With its advanced recombinant technology the Orbital is completely and permanently sealed. During normal use, hydrogen and oxygen within the battery are captured and reunited to form the water supply within the bound electrolyte. Recombinant technology eliminates the need to ever add water to the battery. Another feature of this battery is that it can be installed in any position. With its unique triterminal design, there are two sets of terminals on top and one set on the side. This makes it a smooth fit for most vehicles, including those that require the battery be placed in the trunk or passenger compartment. These original equipment terminal locations make installation fast and easy in many vehicles. You can even install the battery upside down in the passenger compartment, which will give the auto manufacturers a great deal of flexibility in future designs.

With the Orbital being able to withstand abuses that would kill conventional batteries, it’s a perfect choice for many vehicles, including classic cars, RVs, boats (starting only), taxis, and seasonal and farm equipment. The battery is designed for peak cranking power during the initial 3 to 5 seconds of use, when it’s needed most. During this period, the Orbital puts out the equivalent of a 1000-CCA conventional lead-acid unit. The Orbital Select carries a two-year free-replacement, 84-month pro rata warranty. The price tag is $100 to $125.

The Optima

In response to Exide’s new product, Optima Batteries, the pioneer and world’s largest producer of spiral wound cell batteries, has announced the introduction of the 75/35/25 Red Top 12-volt starting battery. The battery is for use in automobiles, small to medium-size trucks, tractors, agricultural machinery, off-highway equipment and industrial applications. The 75/35/25 Red Top battery covers an additional 30 percent of existing vehicle battery replacement applications. The battery can also be mounted in any position. “Optima’s 75/35/25 Red Top significantly outperforms and outlasts conventional flat-plate batteries with a life span two to three times longer than existing conventional lead-acid batteries. Optima’s compact, vibration-resistant design uses high-purity lead plates wound with a glass mat that absorbs electrolyte like a sponge,” says Bill Whitacre, the company’s national accounts manager.

In Optima batteries, rolls of high-purity lead plates are tightly compressed into six spiral wound cells. The design provides over twice the surface area for the lead alloy electrodes compared to conventional designs. The rolled electrodes are individually separated by fiberglass matting material for low internal resistance. This results in significantly increased cranking power and up to two to three times longer shelf life.

“Optima batteries can sit unused for up to one year and still can start a vehicle. In addition, low internal resistance reduces charge time to as low as 1 hour for a full charge, compared to the 10 to 16 hours required for recharging conventional batteries,” says Randy Hively, product manager.

Each of the six spiral cells is enclosed in its own cylindrical silo within the plastic battery case, forming a sealed, closed system that resembles a six-pack of canned beverages.

“SpiralCell batteries deliver high power output that is both faster and longer than conventional batteries, resulting in greater cranking ability and less capacity reduction at high current loads. The sturdy SpiralCell construction minimizes the No. 1 cause of battery failure, plate shedding and positive grid disintegration,” says Hively.

The electrolyte in the spiral cell design is bound into the densely packed fiberglass fibers. In conventional batteries, the acid sloshes around within the battery compartment and can leak through vent valves or when a battery’s case is broken. The spiral rolled electrodes and fiberglass mats are virtually impervious to vibration and impact, and provide consistent higher performance under extreme temperatures. And the completely sealed, absorbed electrolyte design means that Optima batteries, like the Orbital, won’t spill, leak or corrode. It’s a proven and safe maintenance-free design. The consumer never has to add water or clean terminals. And Optima batteries can be shipped by overnight delivery services and the U.S. Postal Service.
Reader Comments
6. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
Red Top Purchased in May 1999. Installed in a 1988 GMC Jimmy S-15. I have left my lights on too long or the radio with amplifiers too long and have knocked the battery voltage too low to start. Having a manuel transmission I was able to push start the SUV and get moving. After being recharged I would get normal starts every time. I am very happy with this battery and it is Jan 2009.

5. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
I have had the Optima battery for 10 years. My classic car sits for 6 months and still starts like it was new. I will be buying another one for my 67 camaro. Great Battery!!

4. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
which battery is best suited for 1992 mustang 5.0 lx 5 speed. i am looking to get a lightweight battery

3. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
have had an Optima battery since 04/2003. this is the most trouuble free battery I've ever owned & I'm a 65 yr old senior. bought my 1st car at age 14. I can't remember how many cars I've owned.left my lites on all nite once would not start in the morning.turned lites off,went back in the house for a cup of coffee. tried battery again after 1/2 hr.started and never went down again. And to think I still have about as much time left as I have already used. And just think I drive a stiffly sprung 4wd pickup.On road,off road This is the battery to buy. worth every penny.I had to hot shot my wifes RAV4 this morning.Afraid the convential battery has lived its full life. her car is a 2004.sure hope the Optima will fit. If not I'm greatly disappointed. 2 words sum up my opinion on the difference between convential & spirial cell batteries. NO COMPARISON. period!

2. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
Not many people notice a great difference unless they are using their batteries for high performance applications. We use our optima red tops and orbital batteries for electrathon, electric vehicle racing, and the red tops make a huge difference in performance. using the orbitals over traditional batteries gives us much more power, and the red tops give us an extra 10 to 20 laps if we use them instead of the orbitals.

1. RE: Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery
I recently purchased current models of the Optima batteries. I see no advantage wound round vs square. You would gain all that lost space for more power between cells, and then get rid of the staggered cells and their odd shape.

, Pep Boys, etc. offer equivalent batteries for about half the price with a better warranty and they will help you install it.

On the other hand, If you're the kind of person that doesn't want to do it yourself, you can call M-B roadside and they will come to you and replace the battery for the same price as you can buy it from the dealer without installation. That's actually a pretty good deal.
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Old 12-04-2004, 03:15 PM #3 (permalink)
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RE: Battery replacement info.....which battery etc?
Quote:
Brian_R170 - 12/4/2004 12:10 PM
...but for Model Year 2001 and newer SLKs, you also have to calibrate the ESP steering angle sensor (I think the procedure is in the owner's manual)....
What is this about? I guess I'll have to look through my manual again, but I've had the battery disconnected once or twice, and I've never done this. I haven't experienced any problems either.
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Old 12-04-2004, 04:09 PM #4 (permalink)
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Interstate is an approved alternate for the Mercedes battery ...
I had my battery replaced in my 230, and it cost $90.00 from the local dealer. about the same as from a parts store, so it's your call. MBCA members get a discount from most dealers, so that could help as well.
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Old 12-04-2004, 04:37 PM #5 (permalink)
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RE: Battery replacement info.....which battery etc?
I finally replaced by original battery in my 99 SLK last month. I replaced it with Interstate, about $95.

I was told that if you call MB roadside, they will replace it for just the cost of the battery, since there time was "free". The guy quoted me $180 to have it done my driveway. I politely declined.
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:44 PM #6 (permalink)
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RE: Battery replacement info.....which battery etc?
Yea, I think I'll just goto Sears and have a Diehard International battery installed I guess....$99 online....unless there's a specific brand you guys recommend? How many CCA and Amps should it be??
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:24 AM #7 (permalink)
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RE: Battery replacement info.....which battery etc?
I would go with the OEM battery because I like the clearish white top better than the black tops with garish logos that the aftermarkets come with. Take Brian's advice and call roadside assistance and the labor will be free.
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Old 12-06-2004, 08:31 AM #8 (permalink)
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RE: Battery replacement info.....which battery etc?
read this one - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1189129&posts=18&hl=battery
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Originally Posted by ae86pwr
dmbenzworld - 11/19/2005 5:18 PM

I remember reading in another post that if you call emergency roadside assistance, they will come and replace it labor free. You only pay for the battery.

I did that twice already for my almost 8 years of ownership.
Maybe that's why you had to do it twice?
Our 99 ML (picked Sept 98) is still going strong on original battery.
I think mine 99 E320 has original as well.
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Old 12-03-2006, 08:35 PM #22 (permalink)
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Smile battery replacement proceedure
Thanks for posting these excellent instructions. I also gave up. I bought the new battery and then couldn't get the old one out. I was going to take it to mercedes tommorow. But now I'll try it again myself in the morning.
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Old 10-26-2007, 05:17 AM #23 (permalink)
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Well you'll be happy to know that these instructions are helping people out almost 4-1/2 years later (they were originally posted in April 2003, cool). It's now October 26, 2007 and I just found these directions to replace the battery in our 2002 ML500... GREAT work, THANKS!!!

- Jean Marc
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:10 AM #24 (permalink)
Gene Horr
BenzWorld Senior Member

Date registered: Sep 2007
Vehicle: 2001 ML430, 1983 300SD
Location: Houston, TX, McAllen, TX
Posts: 598

It is a good thread. This is the first time I've read this one.

A quick note for future DIY'ers if you go with a non-OEM battery just put a wood spacer underneath for proper battery height. Heck, the OEM battery may just be a standard one with more plastic underneath <g>. I'll have to check that when I change mine.
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Old 10-26-2007, 12:22 PM #25 (permalink)
ABenzGuy
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Date registered: Jan 2006
Vehicle: '03 ML320; '97 C280
Location: Chesapeake, VA USA
Posts: 311

NEW BATTERY
Another update: Just had to have my battery replaced yesterday. $188.00 total for the battery and labor at my Benz dealer service. If the price of a new Benz battery is around $135.00 then labor wasn't that much. Kudos to those who take this on themselves and "ghitos73" for helping everyone!
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ED - '03 ML320 & '97 C280 (Wife's car)
Last edited by ABenzGuy : 10-26-2007 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:06 PM #26 (permalink)
tomcat7
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Date registered: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 2000 ML430
Location: Maryland
Posts: 79

Latest Update - Was at Mercedes Benz Dealer Yesterday 12/11/2007 and they now want 210 installed. Same price as Roadside Assistance. Very pricey to me. Glad to see someone else used the Advance Auto Titanium. I bought that today to give it a try as it has better specs and the today price with a 10% discount ordering online and picking up in store (with core change) is only about $78 tax included. Will post how it works!

Update 12/29/2007 - Also had called the dealer parts dept and in Alexandria, VA they wanted $147 for just the battery, so I decided to go with Advance's battery. As you can see, it is less than a perfect fit, but for a 7 1/2 year old vehicle, I thought the additional $60-$70 was a complete waste. This will be the last battery I every put in the vehicle. The battery is almost perfectly identical in length and width; however, it is short in height about 1/2 inch. I was confused by folks saying they put a board below it because the tray is what holds the battery in place. Didn't see how it would hold it if I raised it. I stopped by a machine shop at work and asked if they had any rubber packing material that sheet metal is normally packed with. They gave me a piece about 3 x 6 x 1/2" (I cut it to fit) and put it under the strap to hold it tight. I can now manhandle the battery and no issues. The other two minor issues, the posts appear to be a mm or 2 smaller so I had to tighten the clamps almost all the way. Next, with the battery lower, the positive leads wouldn't allow the plastic guard in front to stay clamped in, so I unhooked it and you can see in the pic it is just kind of pushed out of place. Oh yeah, one other thing, I took the positive cover from the MB battery and used it instead of the autocraft one as that has a plastic clip that cannot hook with the leads on the Benz. As I said, a little less than ideal overall, but just as powerful as the original, 3 year warranty, 84 months prorated, oh and it is maintenance free (unlike the OEM). Can't beat that deal for my 2nd and last MB battery in this car.

By the way, this was so easy (I only changed 2 batteries before, one in my Dad's 69 Benz 220D when I was about 12 with him, and one in my wife's Honda Pilot). But for $110 plus (In my case 210-78=$132) in labor, it is silly not to try unless you have tons of money, in which case you probably don't waste your time on these forums. The more I learn, the more I realize there are things the dealer adds value to, and things they do but just take your money.
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:45 AM #27 (permalink)
geordie
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Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: SLK32, 300CE.ML320
Location: Richmond,VA USA
Posts: 269

Just paid $120 at the dealer and installed it myself.
I'd figured out how to do it myself but I've managed to break two of the rivets that connect the cross-over strap to the main enclosure plate. This is the 4th battery in 5 years.
I had to buy a new battery because the last one died after 6 months !! Which was a "free" replacement for a Sears diehard which only lasted 2 years (36 month replacement warranty)
I could (and maybe should) have returned it to Sears and got another piece of crap which could have stranded my wife and kids. I decided not to bother, especially considering the attitude I got from the A**hole in Sears when I took the last one back.
The MBZ batteries aren't great but they're a lot better than the Diehards.
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:10 AM #28 (permalink)
dominic888
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Date registered: Feb 2006
Vehicle: 2002 ML 320
Location: Playa del Rey, Ca 90293
Posts: 149

I just replaced my battery yesterday with a Bosch Premium Plus, fits almost perfect a 1/4 inch to long and 1/2 an inch too short. I had to insert some stuff so the horizontal bar can hold the battery tightly together. Appreciate all the instructions given on this thread. Thanks! Bosch is giving 3 year free repalcement and 84 months prorated for $84.99. Dealer wants $145.00 with a 2 year warranty only.
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:04 PM #29 (permalink)
eugenezou
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Date registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 1

Wowwwwww! Fantastic instruction! I was so frustrated about how to take the battery out of the tray yesterday afternoon. I just read this and will try it this afternoon. I really appreciate what ghitos73 did about 4 year ago.

The info here is: $120 for battery and $120 for labor at San Diego for ML350.
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Old 12-29-2007, 01:31 PM #30 (permalink)
DelJ
BenzWorld Senior Member

Date registered: Feb 2005
Vehicle: 2000 ML430
Posts: 569

geordie,

The problem is not the batteries! Something is seriously wrong with your charging/voltage regulation system if you are killing a battery every year.

Have been been depleting the battery charge to the point that you need a jump start? That will also kill a battery.

DelJ

Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto
archer archer75 at atlantic.net
Wed Sep 26 18:37:21 GMT 2007

* Previous message: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto
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I bought an Autozone battery one year that it was top rated in CU. It
lasted well. I dealt mostly with Autozone for while until they started
demanding that we write down our name, address, telephone number, etc. when
we dumped used oil.
Gerry
--------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Raymond" <curtludwig at yahoo.com>
> I don't like our Autozone very much but I like Advance Auto alot less.
Which is too bad the store LOOKS like it ought to have all kinds of
good/cool stuff, it just doesn't...
> Anyway on the subject of batteries I used to be stuck on the idea of
> Diehard as the way to go. Then when the battery in my 240D was conking out
> just as I was getting rid of it I put in a $60 (vs $140 for the diehard I
> put in my 300TD) which is still going fine 2 years later (I know the guy
> who bought the car).
> Heck I could buy the AZ battery twice as often and still be money ahead.
> Marshall contends they're probably the same battery with different names
> and I tend to agree. The AZ battery was marked with "Made by Johnson
> Controls".
>
> -Curt

> Tom Hargrave wrote:
>> Modern car batteries are "fill & forget". And because of this, the
> younger
>> guys & gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test &
>> replace.
>
> Gerry: That seems to be the case, but some stores will give you the
> benefit
> of the doubt and let you show them why a part is defective.
>
>> I suspect that you purchased a battery that had been spilled or
>> incorrectly
>> filled and the problem probably did not occur at Advance Auto. The
>> batteries
>> are manufactured under contract & are just branded with their name.
>
> G: Probably so. However, If I had bought a Bosch alternator, put it on
> the
> shelf, and then two months later found that it was missing the diode, I
>
> would expect them to replace it with one that had a diode. If a
> battery is
> missing electrolyte I expect them to replace it with one that was not
> missing electrolyte. There are stores that will do that sort of thing.
> The
> store which Advance Auto bought out (Discount Auto) would have.
>
>> It's also possible that your charging system is over charging & the
> dry
>> cells cooked off first. The timing is about right.
>
> G: Actually, my charging system is undercharging (I just put in another
>
> diode) but maybe the cells cooked off anyway.
> I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries. Should
> have
> gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and
> bought
> a NAPA which was the top rated battery. Duh! Live and learn.
> Gerry

I bought a 300SD with stuck CC servo drawing 0.4A. It had a five year old Autozone Duralast group 49 in it. I spent a couple of days driving it home with no trouble. After I got it home, I ran it dead twice before I found the electrical problem and took out the climate control fuse (it was an inline fuseholder, not in the fuse box). The 2nd time finished off the battery. I paid $60 for another one just like it, the new one has a 7 year warranty. It's in OK shape after 5 years, but doesn't hold a charge in storage as long as the Interstate in my 190D. I can let the 190D sit for six months, hook up the battery, glow for ten seconds, and the car starts instantly. If I let the 300SD sit six months with the battery unhooked, I have to charge it. Mitch.

2008-03-04 at 14:29:45 (posted from: Host: cpe-65-189-149-54.columbus.res.rr.com IP: 65.189.149.54)

Subject:
Titanium Battery at Advance Auto Parts? (1107 views) (2136 thread views)
Message: Many on here have said they have found the Autocraft Titanium, 850CCA battery at Advance Auto Parts to be a reasonably good replacement for the OEM battery. Most have purchased the battery in the $65-$75 range.

However, looking at the site today, the price quote is $127.98! Have battery prices recently skyrocketed, or am I looking at the wrong battery (for an '03 525)?

BEST REPLACEMENT BATTERY??
grober
12-01-2003, 11:09 AM
the cold weather is taking its toll! After sitting out in the cold for 5 days at approx -10c yes its cold in Scotland at this time of year! my battery sounded decidedly old. My present battery is probably the original factory fitted one -74Ah 400A Hoppecke. I could for a straight replacement or go for a Bosch SILVER or a VARTA Blue dynamic which both appear to use lead-calium-technology. On my last 190e I had a Varta 62Ah battery designed for the diesel 190 which never let me down. No consumer/motoring organisation seems to have done a performance/durability comparison between the various manufacturers and in this era of higher electrical loads and ECU controlled systems battery performance is crucial to reliability. I would appreciate any comments on a suitable replacement battery.[/b]
sunil sood
12-01-2003, 02:23 PM
i personally would go for a bosch silver-they come with a 3 yr waranty and are maintenance free.

cheaper alternatives include hoppecke,and gsf's own brand

i find batteries from german,swedish and french car parts are good and competitively priced,also eurocarparts are another good source for merc batteries of good quality and fair price.

there should be a branch of either gsf carparts or eurocarparts near you.
salvatori
12-01-2003, 07:22 PM
Hi,

Varta are good too. I have always used Varta and it too has nevr let me down.

From what I had heard it was Varta who used to supply Mercedes Benz batteries factory fitted for some of the older models W126 etc.. but the factory fitted models had Mercedes Benz printed on them. I may be wrong though.

Regards,

Sal
Andy
12-01-2003, 09:03 PM
Hi

I have to admit. VARTA are my favourite. Original manufacturer. Never had one let me down. But MB have quite favourable priced batteries as well these days.

Regards

Andy @ www.mercedesservicing.com

"Choices Choices"
BIGC'S C-CLASS
12-01-2003, 11:02 PM
Hi,

Just replaced the battery on my C200 Sport. 100Ah.

Fitted a Bosch Silver battery - best price was from a company called Andrew Page. They are a motor factor and deal mainly in Bosch products.

Costs £72 inc Vat. Cost at dealer £110 + vat.
PaulG
13-01-2003, 09:24 AM
Guys,

Don't go near a Unipart Samson "Lifetime Guarentee" battery.

They always give you the hard time whenever you have to return them, which in my case (30 year old Jensen--7 litre engine) is pretty often.

It was a cynical Marketing ploy to give the Lifetime Guarentee on them, because most owners only keep their cars for 2 years.............

When some awkward bastard like me comes in with a duff battery he has had for nearly 16 years, they hide under the counter :)
grober
13-01-2003, 12:22 PM
Hi,
look CAREFULLY at the small print on these"lifetime guarrantee" batteries. Quite often they will "replace" your battery less its years of use, so you have to pay for the expired years and this locks you back into buying another of their crap batteries. e.g. Supposing your" 5year "guarrantee battery fails at 3years old they will replace it with another "5 year " battery less the 3 years of use you have had. YOU PAY THE DIFFERENCE !!! i.e. 3/5 of the price of a new"5 year" battery for the replacement. Better to buy a good quality battery from the start.
mbzslk230k
13-01-2003, 12:38 PM
Go for VARTA Blue - I have that fitted to my Estate and it is a real strong battery

BTW - VARTA makes the MB batteries ... but difference in price is marginal ..
Ernest Sidesman
14-01-2003, 05:51 PM
I have used Varta batteries for decades, quality &amp; longevity excellent,currently fitted,since new on my 6 year old car with every confidence of lasting for another 5 years.
I permanently(Overnight) use a CSI Airflow battery management conditioner which trickle charges(Without overcharging) keeping the battery in optimum condition.
Other Mercedes owners have achieved similar battery life with assiduous daily connections.
Ernest Sidesman.
NormanB
14-01-2003, 08:06 PM
Hi Ernest
I am intrigued can you tell me more about the battery conditioning marlarkey?
NormanB
Ernest Sidesman
16-01-2003, 05:18 PM
Hi Norman, Nothing magical about the Airflow conditioner.It is an electronic trickle charger,that switches off when battery fully charged &amp; switches on again when battery voltage drops,effectively preventing overcharging &amp; maintaining battery in optimal condition.
It is Swiss made,can be left on for prolonged periods(I use it on lawnmower battery during winter daytime &amp; the car at night) it draws 12 watts.
There are also LEDs for checking battery voltage.
It has a QD connector, such that it can be plugged in without accessing battery every time &amp; the car can be locked normally.
It is not designed for outdoor use &amp; is for 12V batteries only.It will not
recharge a completely flat battery.
There are other similar items available but this one has stood the test of time for me &amp; others. It currently costs 40 pounds sterling.
Details on www.racecar.co.uk/airflow/

Ernest Sidesman

Changing Mercedes C230 Battery...?
I am thinking of changing my battery in my C230 1998. Does anyone know what specs the factory benz battery has? Should I replace the old battery with the factory mercedes battery or another aftermarket battery like the duralast from autozone? Which one is better? Thanks...

* 3 months ago

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doug0102 by doug0102

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Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
Just look at the battery you have in your car and read the specs from it. It's fine to use a good brand battery from another company.
Go to a GOOD battery shop and they'll put in the right battery for you.
Mercedes does NOT make batteries. They buy them from other companies and put Mercedes name on it anyway. Durslast from AutoZone is fine as long as it has the same specs. Usually the people ar AutoZone know which battery to put it.

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You are right, it doesn't have to be a mercedes battery... I called AutoZone and they helped me out.. Thanks.

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Donald A by Donald A

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Id go with interstate theyhave a great 2 year free replacement warranty and a 84 month prorated replacement plan. The model batteries that fit your car are either the MTP 93 or an H8 from interstate batteries.

Car Batteries Are Not 12 Volts

There are at least three variations of the lead-acid battery in current automotive use (1). In the most common configuration, the car battery has six cells, each producing about 2.1 volts. Thus the total battery output voltage is about 12.6 volts.

It is the "about" in the previous two sentences that leads to trouble when a charging system is not matched to the type of battery installed.

The three major contributors to battery chemistry are lead, lead dioxide, and sulfuric acid. Unfortunately pure lead is too soft to withstand the physical abuse of mobile applications, so about 6% antimony was added to strengthen it. This led to another problem -- water usage.

Antimony added to the lead grids acted as a catalyst and made outgassing (loss of hydrogen and oxygen during use) worse, and frequent water replenishing was required. So battery manufacturers looked for another material that could strengthen the lead grids.

Calcium was added to both the positive and negative electrodes in the early 1970s. It reduced outgassing enough to allow manufacturers to claim they building "maintenance-free batteries".

However, lead/calcium batteries are not very resistant to "deep-cycling" (deep discharge followed by a full charge). This made them inappropriate for uses such as to power trolling motors in fishing boats. It also required a higher charging voltage. General Motors studied the charging characteristics of lead/calcium batteries and set the voltage regulators of cars equipped with the "Delco Freedom II" battery at 14.8 volts. Lower settings prevented charging to full capacity. This is too high for lead/antimony batteries and will cause them to lose water rapidly.

The third type of battery frequently used in automotive service uses "hybrid" construction. Its positive grid is strengthened with antimony, and the negative grid with calcium. Water usage is greatly reduced, although regular checking is advisable.

The hybrid battery is more resistant to deep cycling than the lead/calcium, but is still not as good in this respect as the original lead/antimony style. Most cars supplied with hybrid batteries have their voltage regulators set to 14.3 volts, although it is reported that the higher 14.8 volt setting of GM cars does no harm if the water level is checked regularly.

A fourth type, the "gel cell", has appeared in automotive use. Early reports were that its manufacturer recommended charging at 13.8 to 14.1 volts (2), suggesting it used hybrid chemistry. However, it also does not allow the user to add water, so it may indeed be lead/calcium.

Older vehicles with voltage regulators set at about 14.0 volts simply will not fully charge lead/calcium or hybrid batteries. Stories abound of cars with older regulators leaving their owners stranded on cold mornings shortly after a "new, improved, maintenance-free" battery was installed. Even two weeks of sitting in the garage, with no load other than the electric clock and burglar alarm, can discharge a battery if the voltage regulator prevented it from being properly charged.

The challenge is particularly severe in the case of foreign manufacturers. Many firms are so certain, and so proud, of their engineering expertise that they have declined to modernize their specifications to meet present battery specifications. Bosch, for example, still teaches its "factory-trained" service technicians that 13.8 volts is enough. As late as 1992 the Product Support Manager of their Automotive Service Division wrote (3) that "13.6-13.8 VDC may in fact be adequate", and that "a fully charged battery cannot be charged with 14 VDC or higher. Doing so will cause the battery to be overheated and damaged".

Only slightly contradicting him is a statement from Bosch's Customer Relations Representative (4) that "the alternator and voltage regulator should charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts". This representative also recommended a local Bosch Authorized Service Center, who assured me that "13.7 volts is enough".

Mercedes-Benz (5) offered their usual advice: "we suggest the installation of an original Mercedes-Benz battery".

The National Technical Director of the Mercedes-Benz Club of America (6) was considerably more flexible: "the specified voltage for Mercedes-Benz cars of the mid-1980s is 13.0 to 14.5 volts". But clearly 13.0 volts is not enough, and Bosch says 14.5 "will overheat and damage the battery". In an early 1993 letter (6) he says local MB technicians tell him that alternators usually check out around 14.2 to 14.4 volts, and that they replace regulators that call for less than 14.0 volts - thus contradicting the Bosch Product Support Manager. Are we having fun yet?

Of course, battery chemistry is also a function of temperature. Modern regulator designs usually charge to higher voltages in cold weather. Bosch has offered this graph in a technical manual (7) covering alternators. Although they do not mention different types of battery construction in this 1982 manual, the graph would appear to display the lower limit of appropriate voltages for hybrid batteries. Too bad their own "factory-trained service technicians" choose to ignore it! By the way, these are stated to be the permissible tolerance ranges of the regulator at an alternator speed of 6000 RPM and a load of 5 Amps.

Personal experience clearly reinforces the dependence of battery performance on a good match between the regulator and the battery chemistry. A 1973 Mercedes whose regulator delivers 14.1 volts keeps its battery well-charged even though the car is driven infrequently and only for short distances. A 1982 model whose regulator provided 13.6 volts would not keep its battery charged - a trickle charger was necessary in cold weather. A 1988 300TE charging at about 13.9 volts has frequent battery problems, while a 1991 560SEC which charges at about 14.1 volts has caused little trouble.

In a more recent document (8), Bosch recognizes the effect of calcium on battery chemistry. Elsewhere in this same 1995 handbook they recommend that when external chargers are used, lead/calcium and hybrid batteries be charged at no more than 14.4 volts and the charger have a certain characteristic known as "Type IU". The "IU" characteristic is well-defined in this reference. However, under the more controlled environment of an automotive charging system (the regulator is temperature-compensated), voltages greater than fifteen are sometimes useful. At a modest air-intake temperature of 25º C (77º F), this chart suggests settings between 14.3 and 14.7 volts.

At one time Interstate offered a line of "Extreme Performance" batteries (9). Recently they reappeared on their Web site under the name "Optima Spiralcell", so they may have a cooperative agreement with Optima. Optima has added a little silver to the plates and some sodium sulfate in the electrolyte, and fabricated the lead plates in a spiral. Their main claim to fame is their ability to be charged very quickly, allegedly due to the greater surface area of their plates and the ensuing lower internal resistance (on the order of 3 milliohms). Since there is no way to add water, they may be lead/calcium (+silver), and the higher charging voltages would apply.

Their charging advice supports this theory. They suggest that alternator settings anywhere from 13.8 to 15.0 volts are appropriate, but that they can be rapidly charged at as much as 15.6 volts. Elsewhere in the same document it is suggested that for constant-voltage charging 14.7 to 15.0 VDC is correct (supporting the "lead/calcium" hypothesis).

Owners on various mailing lists have reported their satisfaction with adjustable regulators. One source mentioned is Transpo Electronics, and another is Doug Sogolow.

If you have a choice, try to get your system to charge within the range suggested by Bosch's newer graph. 14.5 volts at moderate temperature is not a bad target. The improvement in life and performance of lead/calcium and hybrid batteries will be worth it!

Additional information can be found at various places on the Internet(10). Those who don't mind a little math and physics can find a more complete explanation from ThermoAnalytics, in the context of hybrid and electric vehicles(11).

(1) "Batteries: Current Designs", Mike Dale, Motor magazine, November 1985.

(2) Email from Ronald Dwelle, 13 February 1999.

(3) Private correspondence from Dieter Richter (Bosch), 14 September 1992.

(4) Private correspondence from John Haralamos (Bosch), 28 August 1992.

(5) Private correspondence from Thomas Trivento (Mercedes-Benz Owner Service), 1 October 1992.

(6) Private correspondence from Frank King (MBCA), 20 January 1993.

(7) "Technical Instruction Manual - Alternators", Robert Bosch GmbH #VDT-U 1/8 En (12.82), June 1982.

(8) "Automotive Electric/Electronic Systems", Second Edition, Robert Bosch 1995.

(9) "Extreme Performance", Interstate Batteries Web site © 1998, URL = http://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/product_line/extreme_specs_charging.htm, (page no longer found)

(10) "Car Battery Frequently Asked Questions", Bill Darden, URL = http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html

(11) "Battery Modeling for HEV Simulation by ThermoAnalytics Inc", URL = http://www.thermoanalytics.com/support/publications/batterymodelsdoc.html

MERCEDES BENZ ALTERNATORS

Alternators & Regulators Bosch with internal regulators
DESCRIPTION
Alternators made by Bosch are conventional 3-phase, self-rectifying type alternators.

Bosch 75 through 55-amp alternators use3 negative 3 positive and diodes connected to stator windings to rectify current, Bosch 90 and 80-amp alternators use 14 diodes.

All alternators use 3 exciter diodes connected to stator windings, while the engine is running these diodes turn off the alternator indicator light and supply power to the voltage regulator, Bosch regulators are transistorized solid state and integral with alternator.

ALTERNATOR APPLICATION
Model Volts/Amps

(1) Manufacturer's Part No.

190E 14/70 489 928
190D 14/70 489 897

All Others 14/70 N/A
(1) Bosch alternator part numbers are preceded by the numbers 0 120 or beginning with an AL lettering a number and ending with an X.

1. You can connect a voltmeter to the alternator "B+" terminal and ground, voltmeter should indicate battery voltage, if not check wiring between battery and alternator.

2. Turn ignition on and check that alternator indicator light comes on, if light does not come on, check wiring between warning light and alternator, including indicator bulb.

1. Ensure connections at battery, alternator, and starter are clean and tight, ensure alternator engine and body are properly grounded, ensure alternator belt is tight and in good condition.

2. Connect ammeter following manufacturer's instructions, connect voltmeter leads to battery terminals.

3. Start engine and run at 3000 R.P.M. adjust carbon pile to obtain maximum alternator output, do not allow voltage to go below 12.6 volts.

4. Alternator output should equal alternator rated output, minus 16-20 amps, if reading is 16-20 amps below alternator rating, replace regulator and retest, if output is still too low, repair or replace the alternator.

REGULATOR CONTROL VOLTAGE TEST

1. Connect ammeter following manufacturer's instructions, connect voltmeter leads to battery terminals, run engine at 3000 R.P.M.

2. Run engine until voltage stops rising, voltage should be 13.5-14.5 volts, if reading is incorrect, remove regulator and ensure brushes are longer than 6 m.m..

3. If brushes are okay and regulator fails to keep voltage within specified limits, replace regulator and retest, if voltage is still incorrect, repair or replace alternator.

OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove nut, lock washer, and pulley, remember position of spacers, Then remove fan assembly and key, scribe mark on front and rear housings, remove voltage regulator and remove screws, separate front and rear housings.

2. Disconnect capacitor from terminal; remove nut, insulators, screws and washers.

Remove stator assembly.
3. Unsolder stator from diode assembly; remove bearing wave washer or o ring from rear of housing.

3. Support front housing and carefully press out rotor, do not allow rotor to fall, remove screws securing bearing retainer, remove retainer front bearing and seal remove rear bearing from slip ring at end of rotor.

TESTING & REPAIR
Diode Assembly
1. Place ohmmeter scale on x100 scale connect ohmmeter leads across "B+" terminal and 3 stator terminals one at a time, reverse leads, ohmmeter should indicate continuity in one direction only.

2. Reconnect ohmmeter leads across negative and 3 stator terminals one at a time.

Reverse leads; ohmmeter should indicate continuity in one direction only.

3. Connect ohmmeter leads across "D+" terminal and 3 stator terminals one at a time.

Reverse leads, ohmmeter should indicate continuity in one direction only, if diodes are found to be defective, replace the diode assembly.

Fig. 3: Diode Assembly Test Diode assembly for 55 amp alternator is shown, others are similar.

1. Place ohmmeter on lowest scale, connect ohmmeter across stator leads, resistance between leads should be 14 15 ohms for 55-amp alternator and .09 10 ohms for 65 through 90 amp alternators, if resistance is incorrect, stator has open or shorted windings and must be replaced.

2. Place ohmmeter on X 1000 scale. Connect ohmmeter between stator core and stator lead, no continuity should exist, if continuity exists, stator is grounded and must be replaced.

1. Place ohmmeter on lowest scale, connect ohmmeter across slip rings, resistance should be 3 4-3.75 ohms for 55 amp alternator and 2.8 3.1 ohms for 65 through 90 amp alternators.

2. If resistance is too low, rotor has short circuit and it must be replaced if resistance is infinity no continuity, rotor has open circuit and must be replaced.
3. Place ohmmeter on x1000 scale, reconnect ohmmeter between either the slip ring and rotor core, no continuity should exist, if continuity exists, rotor is grounded and must be replaced.

4. Clean slip rings using a very fine sandpaper, rings which are worn or pitted should be turned on lathe, minimum ring diameter is 1 1/16" 26.8 m.m. if slip rings are beyond repair, replace slip rings as outlined in steps 5 and 6.
5. Remove rear bearing from slip ring end of rotor, unsolder wires from slip rings and bend up ends of rotor winding, pull off slip rings, ensure ends of rotor winding are not damaged.

6. Insert the ends of rotor winding into slip ring and press new slip ring onto rotor, slip ring end must be 9/64" 3.5 m.m. from end of the collar, solder rotor winding to slip ring terminals, turn rings on lathe and retest rotor, maximum slip ring run out is 0012".03 m.m..

The Bearings
Always replace bearings, if replacement front bearing is sealed on one side only, open side must face rotor, if replacement rear bearing is sealed on one side only, open side must face away from rotor.

Brushes
Ensure brushes are longer than 6 m.m. replace if necessary, unsolder brushes from voltage regulator, solder new brushes, and do not allow solder to run into strands of brush leads.

Brush must be free to slide in holder with normal spring tension of 10-14.

REASSEMBLY
1. Install the bearing, retainer, and screws in front housing, press rotor onto housing.

Press bearing on slip ring end of the rotor, solder stator to diode assembly, exercise care when soldering near diodes due to possible heat damage.

2. Install insulators on stator assembly, assemble stator assembly and rear housing, install wave washer or O ring in rear housing, align the scribe marks and assemble front and rear housings.

3. Install key, fan assembly, and spacers, install the pulley, lock washer and nut, tighten nut to 23-29 ft. 3-4 Nm. Ensure rotor spins freely, and install voltage regulator and capacitor.

Clint Hough is an author and web site publisher on imported car parts and you can get all your Mercedes Benz Parts from our on line catalog for all your Mercedes Car Parts needs

2001 E320 Battery (1184 views)
Message: I don't know who the vendor is but I called Batteries Plus here is St Louis for a quote and the price was $89.00. The dealer charged $109.00 plus $51.00 to diagnose and $51.00 to put the battery in. Totaling $212.00 for a battery replacement. No wonder the call the dealer the stealer. Had I known it was the battery I would have bought the darn thing and put it in myself. But the symptoms were just like I indicated below, so it didn't dawn on me it was the battery after a tow and everything else. I wish I had gotten a rapid response from this site. It's pretty dead on here and not like the BMW/Jaguar forums. I am going to post my own answer and indicate it was the battery just so someone else can benefit.

September 19, 2008
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* auto clinic
* maintenance
* brakes
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Source of Battery Drain, Tire Valve Cap, Replacing A Brake Light: Mike Allen's Weekly Online Auto Clinic

Q: I installed a new battery in my car, which is not driven at all during the week, and a week later it died. How can the battery drain even though it is parked all week? Could I have a faulty electric fuel pump that is draining the battery?

A: The only way the fuel pump could be draining the battery is if the fuel pump is running full time. And it would drain the battery within a few hours, not a week. A normal car battery has 48-64 ampere-hours of capacity, while a fuel pump draws, depending, 6-10 amps. Divide 64 by 6 and you get, at most about 8 hours before the battery is too weak to start the car. A smaller battery and a pump that draws more current will run down even faster. You may have a smaller parasitic drain, like a light in the trunk or glovebox that’s not turning off.

Measure the battery current with all the accessories turned off by removing the ground clamp and putting an ammeter between the clamp and the post. You should see less than 50 milliamps of drain, which is what is normal. The computer’s memory, the clock and the radio do draw this small amount of current, but that shouldn’t drain the battery for a month or two.

Are you charging this battery? Check that the battery voltage is above 13.5 volts when the engine is running at fast idle. If not, the battery may not be getting charged properly, and you’ll need to diagnose the charging system to find out why.

Q: You mentioned in a previous column that the tire valve cap will keep the air from being released by centrifugal force at high speeds. Since that is an outward force, and an inward force is required to unseat a tire valve, how can that be true?

A: Because the tire valves usually point inwards towards the center of the wheel. And moving the valve outwards is what opens it. Which is exactly what the centrifugal force provides.

Q: I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata. I need to replace the upper center brake light and would like to do it myself, but I've been told it has to be done by a dealer, which would cost me $50. Can I do it myself?

A: This is cut and pasted directly from the shop manual. It seems easy enough. I don't think you even need any tools. Who told you it needed to go to the dealer?

STOP LAMPS REPLACEMENT
HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP

1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
2. Open the trunk lid and then disconnect the connector of high mounted stop lamp.
3. Remove the package tray.
4. Replace the bulb (A) from the package tray.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Reader Comments
4. RE: Source of Battery Drain, Tire Valve Cap, Replacing A Brake Light: Mike Allen's Weekly Online Auto Clinic
Website: http://www.avanigroup.com
The tire valve caps are the final seal to guard against air lost from the car tires, with the valve being the primary seal. However, as correctly stated, valve being the primary seal. However, as correctly stated, when the wheel is going at high speed, the centrifugal force will lead to the valve being open, and hence resulted in air escaped from the tire. Hence, it is important to always have the valve caps on to guard against air lost due to centrifugal force effect on the valve, this importance cannot be stressed enough.when the wheel is going at high speed,

3. RE: Source of Battery Drain, Tire Valve Cap, Replacing A Brake Light: Mike Allen's Weekly Online Auto Clinic
I have a 1977 Chevy 1-ton that I have been working on. The battery holds charge until I turn on lighs or fan. I have traced all wires and fixed a few shorts and still it drops from 13 on the in dash voltage meter to about 10 when lights come on and continues to drain. I am lost. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!

2. Power window repair
power window repair 2002 Dodge grand Caravan

1. RE: Battery Drain,
had the alt on 1985 ford 150 replaced, old one had 3 wires,new one 2 wires, n ow have batt drain like crazy. can this wire problem be the cause. thanks

December 14, 2007
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Dead Battery Mystery, Adding Acetone, Grinding Noise on Braking, Best Oil for VW Jetta TDI

Q: I have a 1996 Grand Marquis with 56,000 miles and a nearly-new battery. I turned the ignition switch, the engine cranked beautifully, then died (I have had this problem for a while because the car is not driven much and the fuel injectors need cleaning). No big deal. I turned the ignition switsh again, and in less than a second, everything was dead. The dash lights went out, the headlights were dead, and I could not unlock the door by remote or keyless pad on door. I heard a fast clicking inside the light switch. I recharged the battery. The lights were bright, everything worked. I turned the ignigion switch, and in less than a second, everything was dead. I recharged the battery again, left the charger attached to the battery for an added boost, turned the ignition switch and in less than a second the battery was completely dead, and my battery charger was dead as well.

I talked to the service rep at my dealership and he said he thought this all happened because the battery was just a bit under 12 volts when i tried to crank the car. (Say what?!?!?) Needless to say, I don't want them coming out to work on the car.

A: Trust me, you’re not discharging a fully-charged car battery in a second or two. That would release enough energy—as heat—to make the engine block glow red-hot and probably make the battery explode.

You’ve got a high-resistance connection somewhere between the battery and the starter motor, either in the positive or negative battery cable. And it’s probably corrosion at the clamp. The high resistance will pass enough current to run the dash lights and the starter solenoid (10 amps or so), but when the starter motor kicks in, the huge current draw (200-300 amps) drops the battery voltage way too low to light up anything. At the same time the localized heat in the bad connection blows out the very small contact area in the clamp or cable that’s been carrying what little current has been sneaking past. Now you have a very high-resistance connection, one that’s too poor to even light up the dash.

Attaching jumper cables or the battery charger then disturbs the connection enough to reestablish a better, but still inadequate, connection, at least until you try to start the car again. You can check with a voltmeter or even a test light for voltage drop along the starter wiring. There should be less than a half a volt of voltage drop across any connection.

But I’d just start by removing and cleaning up the battery posts and clamps. If they’re fine, follow the big positive lead to the starter solenoid. Don’t forget to check the negative lead, which connects to both the engine block and the car frame.

I further would guess your battery charger isn’t really blown. It’s trying to charge the battery across that high-resistance connection, because you’re probably attaching the charger’s alligator clips to the clamp, not directly to the battery post.

And yes, this is typical for a car that isn’t used regularly. Once you’ve cleaned everything up and got the car started. The service rep obviously doesn’t comprehend how the starting system and battery work. Let’s hope the the service technicians who work on vehicles at this dealer remember some of their 8th grade physics.

The positive terminal of your battery can deliver dangerous amounts of current if it shorts to ground. This can be avoided easily.

Q: A friend of mine told me that I should always disconnect the positive terminal of the battery first to keep the electricity from spilling out of the battery. I can't see how this would matter. I just unhook whichever terminal is closest first. I've never noticed any spilled electricity, and I think he's just pulling my leg.

A: Let me relate something that happened to a friend of mine, a dentist by trade who likes to work on his sports car occasionally. In preparation for some other work, he elected to remove the battery from the car, using a box wrench to loosen the battery clamps. The wrench made contact with his wedding ring (he's lefthanded), and the ring in turn made contact with the battery holddown. A massive short circuit welded his ring to the holddown and to the wrench, which in turn was welded to the positive terminal.

Car batteries store an enormous amount of energy, and they're optimized to deliver it in a very short period of time. A shorted car battery can easily deliver several hundred amps — more than an arc-welding machine. Within a second, my friend's wedding ring was almost red-hot, and only a fast reaction with his other hand to break the connection by hitting the wrench prevented it from remaining connected long enough to melt. The ring had to be sawed off his finger at the emergency room, and it was more than a month before the burn specialist was sure he wouldn't lose the finger altogether.

Two lessons here. First, remove all jewelry when working with tools, even something as simple as a box wrench. That's fairly obvious, eh?

Second, always remove the battery's ground clamp before loosening the positive. If you remove the negative clamp and inadvertently complete a circuit to ground, there will be no current flow because the ground clamp is already grounded. Subsequent shorting of the positive terminal to ground will then produce no current flow because the current has no return path to the negative post. And, of course, always reconnect the ground last.
Reader Comments
12. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
Hi, quick question, in a car, does the electrons in the battery flow from negative to positive or from positive to negitive? Thanks

11. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
how do you carry and top up a battery safely

10. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
my battery shorted with the bonnet.replaced 80 amp fuse averything else works but there is no click to engine and engine does not even turn

9. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
have a 99 chevy s10 blazer n good shape with a napa battery. she rides bus to work & car sits in garage. when gets to 30s outside, you can tell a difference in cranking. afer running driving for 10 minutes car does great. what causes this? Mike from des Moines Iowa, send me a email f you like

8. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
my car wont start only the first time in the morning. After I get it stared the first time i can re-start it ok as long as i re-star it within 2 hors. Also battery shows some blue chemical spill out. Can I fix it myself? Thanks

7. Question about my car's battery
Q:I have a problem with my battery. I can start my car and everything, but it seems like it just runs out of power after I use my sound system for about a half hour. Then when I use the car without using the sound system for a while, the power will come back on, but it only gives me a half hour or so again!. I read it may be that all of the acid in the battery has gone to the bottom, and it can be fixed at home, however I dont know if that is the problem and I dont know what to do to find out. May I get some help please? I'm pretty sure my battery is ok, its not that old.. and the car is a Luxury car I just got from my family. So they've used many of the car's gadgets at once.. I dont know how much that may affect it. Thanks for the help.

6. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
how long can you leave a battery without hooking it up to your car before it starts to drain the power from the battery the terminals are not conected to the cables, meaning cable to starter motor not conected, cable to engine block not conected...Adelaide South Australia

5. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
It doesn't matter which post you disconnect first, but removing the negative first would be the safest. In the example above, if he had removed the negative post first, he wouldnt have grounded the positive post with his ring. A battery placed on the ground can discharge faster then normal, due to a tempeture variation between the top and bottom of the cell. Yet the difference in ground tempeture and ambient tempeture, is rarely far off each other.

4. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
Have a friend thats keeps on tewlling me its a urban myth about leaving batteries on the ground (ie'Cement) and they dis-charge. I personally have had this happen to me so i agree.

3. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
Website: www.1mobilerepair.com
Exactlly. And don't forget to use eye and hand protection. Batteries do explode sometimes and can kill and maime...

2. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
Is it a bad idea to put batteries in the back floor board of an exended cab pick up (for a power inverter)

1. RE: Car Battery Do's and Don'ts
Q: is it possible to give me a step by step guide to removing a car battery safely?

The Heat Is On

Q: My battery failed after four years, which I thought was a little too soon. The repair shop that installed it thought the same, so they replaced the battery with a somewhat larger one, the biggest they could get to fit into the battery tray. They also did a full charging system checkout. Two years later the new battery failed, so they replaced it under warranty--but only half the cost was covered. It seems the fine print in the battery warranty says the battery price is prorated. And after two years, I was responsible for the use I had of it until it failed. They installed a new battery identical to the previous one. It lasted only 18 months. So, of course, I had to pay again. I feel like I’m renting these batteries. What’s going on?

A: Normally, I suggest replacing the smallish standard battery with the largest one possible. This is a textbook example of someone honestly attempting to improve something, then screwing it up. I see it a lot.

Your original battery had enough room surrounding it for a simple plastic insulating blanket. This device is intended not only to keep your battery warm on cold nights--which it does--but also to keep the battery cool on hot days. Modern cars restrict the amount of air flowing through the engine compartment to improve both aerodynamic efficiency and economy. New engine compartments are pretty crowded. The elevated temperatures are enough to boil the electrolyte right out of the battery--hence, the simple insulator. Installing a bigger battery means there is no room for the insulation, which translates to short battery life, especially in warmer climates. You should try to rig up some insulation for your new battery, or at least replace the giant battery with one that permits the insulator to be reinstalled.

This is one of the reasons some cars have batteries installed in the trunk instead of underhood.
Page 1 2 3 Next »
Reader Comments
16. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
My battery charger indicates a sulphated cell when I attempt to charge to charge battery,what is problem? thanx mike

15. RE: HHO injection
Sorry, there's no free lunch with HHO. Here's why: Your car engine is 30% efficient. The engine runs the alternator which is 80% efficient. The electricity from the alternator runs the electrolysis process to separate H2 from O . Then you pipe the HHO gas back into the engine where it is burned with 30% efficiency again. Theoretically, the same amount of energy is required to separate the H2 and O as is produced when it is burned. But practically, the result is a net loss because of the inefficencies of the systems.

14. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
my 2005 E-150 Ford has had a leakage to ground, it may be fixed, but the (new +$105.00)battery acts almost the same, is only 4-6 weeks old. Is it posssible the continous discharge damaged it?

13. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
Hello do do -it -yourself hydrogen kits work . Do they work or did I just waste 49.95. When you go to your site they pop up in Goggle. thank you

12. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
Cars running on water--STEAM Practically there is a tremendous amount of heat being wasted in a cars engine. More than half. If water droplets, very fine, are produced from the 2H2+02 combustion process and they expand utilizing the wasted heat as super heated steam then you are taking the energy out of the waste heat not from the combustion of the H2+02. That being said the people who claim results also fiddle with the computer to lean out the mixture and claim 30% fuel savings. I personally think this is due to the leaning out rather than the small quantity of 2H2+02 It is an interesting thought. Take care Tom

11. using hho injection in your car
I have been reading about installing a HHO system on your auto. Is really a practical way to improve gas mileage? Thanks for all your articles they are very well recieved. Cliff AYFB

10. Water powered cars
Electricity isn't the only technology that can separate water into H2-O. Also, there are catalysts that enable such a process to be effective with little energy. Research more. The 2nd Law of Thermodynamics states that you can't get more energy out than what YOU put into it. Clearly the Hydrogen bomb puts out more energy than humans put into it. Solar energy produces more energy than humans put into it. Wind turbines put out more energy than we put into it. In the same way water has way more energy than we need to put into it. Hydrogen is an incredibly rich energy, particularly out of water which is dense.

9. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
I own a 72 volt electric car that has two 12 volt batteries under the hood plus four 12 volt batteries in the rear of the car. Each battery is 13.3 inches long X 6.7 inches deep X 8.5 inches high (Discover AGM EV31A-A batteries). My garage is not heated and during the winter the range is cut by 60 percent or more on cold days down in the 20s (degrees F). Can you recommend a set of good 110 volt battery blankets to keep the batteries warm each night so that the range will stay up when I use the vehicle during the day? Thank you.

8. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
NO CAR ! tha other night I went to the store for grocerys when I tryed my car nothing happened.! got a jump came home in the morning nothing again replaced the battery .still nothing .checked battery its o.k. figured it was the starter ( its as dead as a doornail) got a new starter had a friend replace it still nothing.What should I do ?after battery and starter ive no $ left ...HELP!

7. RE: Auto Clinic: Insulation vs larger battery
Website: www.saqistan.com
What do you mean ‘boil the electrolyte right out of the battery’? Do you mean to say it evaporates? My understanding is that the electrolyte comprises of 65% water and 35% sulfuric acid and that only the water evaporates (which can be easily added) and not the sulfuric acid. If that’s the case, then how does insulation help prolong the battery life, especially if you regularly check the level of electrolyte?

6. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
is there a product that extends battery life by a company called puls-tek?

5. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
for the blower stang fella: lining up ring grooves is almost a waste of time as they migrate around the piston with use. in adition, having them lined up will barely change the leakdown/blowby amount. your problem lies elsewhere. with a blower combo it could be anything; go back to basics, check leakdown, timing, etc. the plugs will tell you much about what's going on inside the motor.

4. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
Does the felt washers and protective grease extend the life of a auto battery?

3. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
I'm thinking of installing a battery blanket(warmer)in my truck,Without ever using one before I'm a little hesitant.Can you tell me if they stay on as long as they are plugged in or do they have a built in thermostat?And Can they damage a battery while they are warming it? Thanks in advance for any help!

2. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
Helping my son with his 5.0L mustang with a blower. We got it going fine, but after a few hard runs, the engine lost much power. We took the engine apart and found that the ring groves had all lined up!!! We know we installed them as Ford dictated. Why???

1. RE: Auto Clinic: Extend Your Car's Battery Life, Is Your Engine Guzzling Oil? and More
This is a good example that it's better to get a battery that you can test witha a hydrometer and add water to, instead of the 'no maintenance batteries'where it's not possible to add water or electrolyte.

There's nothing but a loud buzzing noise coming from under the hood when you try to start your car. Jumper cables get you up and scurrying to work--but you need another jump to get home. Time to pull some maintenance on the battery.

Automotive batteries have a finite life span. Undercharging, overcharging and heat all team up to degrade your battery. Poor electrical connections make it more difficult for even a good battery to do its job.

ALL CHARGED UP
Start any battery maintenance program by checking open-cell voltage, either with a dedicated battery tester or a voltmeter. With the battery fully charged and all electrical drains-dome light, warning buzzer, etc.-shut down, the voltage across the terminals should be 12.5 to 12.6 volts. If the battery is not completely charged, but still adequate to turn over the motor, you may see a voltage closer to 12.0 volts.

If the battery shows less voltage or won't take a charge, it's time to get out the hydrometer. This device checks the proportions of sulfuric acid and water in the electrolyte, which is a precise indication of the level of charge. Pull up the battery fill caps--if you can. Add distilled water to any cells in which the level of electrolyte isn't touching the bottom of the fill port. Use only distilled water. The minerals in tap water will eventually reduce a battery's capacity.

If your battery is one of the so-called low-maintenance varieties, you may not see any filler caps. These batteries claim to never need water added. While it's true that they have a slightly different chemistry that consumes less water, and the level of electrolyte in the cells is deeper over the top of the plates, eventually these batteries run out of water and die. Look carefully and see if there is a way to pull up a set of filler caps. They may be hidden under a sticker that can be slit open. Others are permanently sealed shut.

If the level of electrolyte is very low, suspect a charging system that's generating too high a voltage. The maximum voltage you should see across the battery terminals with a fully charged battery and an engine running well above idle is about 14.6 volts. Another cause of low electrolyte is excessive heat. Sun Belt drivers should top up battery levels regularly because underhood temps will climb high enough to drive water out of the battery very rapidly, even if the charging system is doing its job correctly. If your vehicle came with an insulator around the battery, be sure it's in place and in good shape.

It's the second time this week that you've had to jumpstart your car. Bad enough first thing in the morning, when you can use the battery in your RV to give you a start--but standing in a rainy Wal-Mart parking lot with your hood open and jumper cables in your dripping hands is just plain humiliating, not to mention uncomfortable and inconvenient. The standard solution: Install a new battery--which means coughing up enough money to buy a new one and have it installed. A few minutes of attention once or twice a year can perhaps double the life of your battery, saving you cold, hard cash. And, just as importantly, keep rain from running down your neck in shopping mall parking lots on stormy nights.

Would You Li ke Fries With That, Sir?

First, you need to determine if your battery is indeed fried or not. Other reasons for a no-start or barely start condition include, for openers, a marginal starter motor and high-resistance wiring in t he primary (starter motor) circuit.

Open the hood. If your battery terminals are covered with green fur that looks like it belongs in a bad sci-fi movie, you'll need to clean that up. Start by pouring some warm water over the terminals t o dissolve the sulfation. This accretion is normal, but it can prevent good contact between the battery posts and the clamp, which in turn keeps your battery from providing enough voltage to start or prevents it from charging properly. Remove the terminal s, and brighten up all the metal with a wire brush-style battery post terminal cleaner and a baking soda paste. Don't splash liquid around the engine compartment or onto the paint, and rinse everything off thoroughly.

Dirt on the top and sides of the battery, even greasy dirt, can hold enough moisture to create a current leak from the positive terminal directly to the negative terminal, making your battery self-discharge more rapidly. Leave the battery clean and dry.

No w take a close look at the terminal clamps on the cables. If they're eroded too badly to provide good mechanical contact, replace them.

Warning: Whenever you work on a car battery, always disconnect the negative terminal first--not the p ositive. Why, you may ask? Simple: If you accidentally brush up against the fenderwell or any other grounded metal part of the car while you're unhooking the ground side, nothing will happen. But if the ground is still connected, and you're wrenching on t he positive side and happen to touch any metal, you'll be holding onto a wrench that's suddenly conducting several hundred amperes. That's as much current as an arc welder--which means a large spark, lots of heat and enough energy released to turn your wr ench cherry red within a few seconds.

Avoid quickie aftermarket universal clamps that simply let you saw off the old clamp and clamp on the new one. While these have their uses (keep one in your on-car toolbox as a get-home-tonight exped ient) they'll develop corrosion between the clamp and the cable in a few months and leave you stranded, again. If you feel up to it and have a soldering iron (probably propane-fired) capable of generating enough heat, you can solder a new clamp onto the e xisting cable. Use rosin-core electrical solder, not plumbing solder.

Don't have the Great Mother of All Soldering Irons? The simple way out is to replace the entire cable. If you're lucky, you can pick up an appropriate cable at the aut o parts counter. Generally, all they stock are simple one-lead cables, in positive and ground. Yes, there is a significant difference between the terminals on the battery, and you really ought to use a black-insulated cable on the ground and a red-insulat ed cable on the positive or the post will fit the clamp poorly, which is how you got into this mess in the first place.

Unfortunately, it's not always that simple. Some battery clamps, both positive and negative, are soldered to more tha n a single wire. You have a choice here. The best solution is to go to the dealer and get the correct piece. That may be inconvenient, and will certainly be expensive. You can solder lugs of the appropriate size and gauge to the extra wires, and then atta ch the lugs to the clamp either by means of the clamp bolt or a large sheetmetal screw into the clamp body. Look for a clamp with an extra terminal if this is necessary, although if you've got side-terminal batteries this might be impossible. As a last re sort, splice and solder the cables together ahead of the terminal. Be sure to use shrink tubing to cover the splice, especially if you're splicing the positive side.

When you reinstall the clamps, cover all exposed metal with petroleum j elly, white grease or my own personal favorite, Cop-Graf or Nevr-Seez brand antiseize compound. This will delay the inevitable growth of sulfur salts on the terminals by keeping moisture from collecting on the bare metal.

C320 Battery Replacement Problems
I originally had problems w my 2001 C320 after my battery went dead. I've resolved most of those problems this past weekend. This may be different for each MDY, but it appears that when your battery dies or you replace it with a new battery, the MB CPU will go into a default mode where nothing works properly:
- the car trunk cannot be opened
- the car's remote only unlocks if pointed directly at the driver's side sensor
- signal lights and emergency lights do not work
- windshield wipers and fluid do not work
- instrument pannel display is incorrect
- error messages for SRS, ESP

However, you can reset the MB CPU by disconnecting the battery cables for a longer period of time (I did it for 24 hours) to drain the CPU of all electrical power completely. Dead batteries cannot start cars but they have enough juice to sustain CPU's. Also when a battery is removed for a short period (ie: to change the battery), the CPU has enough power to retain the error settings.

I reconnected the battery to the C320 after 24 hours and the MB CPU did reset itself. The only error messages were the ESP (which is easy to resolve) and the SRS. Unfortunately, there is no way to resolve the SRS error. It can only be done by a tech w the MB Star sensor. But at least you can tell the MB tech to fix one prob only (and save on the hourly charges) rather than have him diagnose the entire car.

Had same problem with my 2001 c320
purchased new battery but it would be dead if I did not drive it every day.
Took it to dealership and they found that the power seat was draining the battery.

Replaced power seat control module...final cost ~555.00
did anyone else have the same problem??
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#3
Old 02-13-2007, 04:49 PM
f1fan f1fan is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
Hi Alkir:

Yeah, the new battery is practically dead if you don't drive the car thoroughly. That happened to me after I left my car in the garage w the new battery for a week. You have to drive the car to charge the battery. Then its fine.

I had the exact same situation as you. Just got my C320 back from the dealer for a diagnostic ($130 for 1 hour). They said the "Seat Recognition Sensor" (the same SRS airbag message that I can't get rid of) "coincidentally malfunctioned at the same time when the battery went dead. It cannot be fixed or reset and needs to be replaced. They quoted me $530 for parts and labour. I gave the part description and vehicle identification number to my mechanic friend. He will do the job for $350 parts and labour.
Always check to see if you can get your local mechanic can do the job first.
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#4
Old 08-22-2007, 12:26 AM
bigbus920 bigbus920 is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
I am having this exact Battery Drain problem right now with my 2002 C32 I bought a few months ago. If I don't drive it within 12 to15hours the battery will be dead as a door knob. Sometimes when I jump it off and start driving the transmission will not change gears. Usually I drive it enough for the battery to recharge then I turn the ignition off and back on and everything is OK. A local non-dealerMB shop troubleshot it for 2.5 hours but could only verify a 1.2 amp draw from an unknown source and that I would have to take it to the dealer to be troubleshot for $205/Hr. with a 2 hour minimum. One night sitting in my vehicle it sounded like a hum was coming from the SOS console. Do you reckon I have a power draw from the seats as well or a bad light bulb? HELP!

bigbus920
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#5
Old 08-22-2007, 12:33 PM
f1fan f1fan is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
bigbus920:

I think the best thing to do is have the M-B dealership identify the problem for you. Yes, it will cost some $ but at least you will have on paper what the issue is. Its better than having a non-dealer mechanic "guess" the issue and fix the wrong issue.

Your M-B seems to charge too much just for troubleshooting. My dealer charged $130/hr Cdn and did the inspection in 1 hour.

Once M-B has identified the issue, you can have a non-dealer mechanic order the replacement parts and install it for you at a lower price. In my case, the issue were the two power seat sensors (drivers and passengers) which were sucking up the electrical power - even when the car was off.
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#6
Old 08-24-2007, 11:33 PM
bigbus920 bigbus920 is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
You're probably right. That's good advice. I should probably travel to the next nearest dealership to get a better price for the troubleshooting. Thanks!
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#7
Old 08-25-2007, 09:06 AM
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chassis221 chassis221 is offline
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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
morning! your car does have battery drain issues with the seat control modules under the seats if they have a part # starting with 203 then they need to be replaced with the part # that begins with 211. you might be able to see the part #'s if you look carefully under the seat and maybe with a mirror. as for some of the errors and issues you are having you wipers and washers, theyshould work regardless of battey dying. sounds to me that there is another issue with your car other than the battery dying.
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#8
Old 08-29-2007, 08:21 PM
Adrenalinko Adrenalinko is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
I also have similar problem on my C320 2003. My batery died after returning from 1 week long vacation.
I bought new batery. Now my driver seat doesn't work. After I open the fuses and just take them out and put them back my seat works again. If I leave my car off for couple of hours my seat doesn't work again.
What could this be?
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#9
Old 10-09-2007, 11:40 PM
bigbus920 bigbus920 is offline

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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
fifan

I finally spent some quality time to explore my problem and found two connectors under each seat and disconnected them and now my battery does not lose power. Apparently the seat module needs to be replaced because I pulled fuses 1 and 2 in the trunk and the seats just kept working. It took the better part of 15 minutes to find the connectors and disconnect them.

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#10
Old 01-17-2008, 07:53 PM
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Default RE: C320 Battery Replacement Problems
I have a C320 2002 and my battery recently went dead. The mechanic replaced the battery and reset the electronics for $250.

5 days later the car was dead. The mechanic diagnosed the problem, and changed the seat control module (front passanger) for $866 parts and labor. Just received car, everything seems OK.

He said the module was $410 and all else was labor and diagnoses. Is this reasonable?

Question
My 1998 Mercedes ML320 SUV went click-click-click when I turned the key so I had my husband replace the battery (moved from AZ where the battery wore out yearly) now it turns over quickly but dies instantly--I thought it might be a kill switch needing to be reset but my old mechanic from Phoenix says I need a new key and the dealer technician here in Lexington KY thought if I left the key turned on for 15 minutes it would reset itself. That didn't work. I'm stuck in my own driveway and trying to avoid a tow to the dealership 20 miles away. It sat for a couple of weeks-I thought maybe moisture in the gas? And my husband jumped it from his car without the engine running thinking the voltage wouldn't be high enough to damage the electrical system. Now, new battery in place, the keys still work on the locks (remote) but it won't go vroom-vroom...can you help me?

Answer
Actually I was a techincian for Phoenix Motor Co. in Phoenix, AZ for quite a few years and I know what you mean about batteries going dead early. Your problem is generally caused by a key not communicating with the ECU.

Most likely you will need to take it to the dealership for reprogramming. When we reprogram a key, we have to use our diagnostic computer the set the program and then leave the key in the ignition for anywhere up to 24 hours. The key and the ECU both put out numeric codes (about 15 codes per second) and the key has to be in the ignition for that amount of time for the coding to sync up with one another.

You should take this to the dealership.

Battery Replacement
Walrath
10-29-2004, 05:56 AM
I have been having the discussion on the Tech Fourm about using the Optima battery in the M-Class. The following is a repeat of my post in response to Jim G's. help.

"The schematic (of the Optima) brings out the two main problems for the Optima (34R) installation in the ML320. 1) The Optima is quite a bit shorter than the battery the case is designed for. The problem is how to hold the battery in the case. 2) The Optima terminals are set farther from the edges of the battery than the original battery. This is a problem particularily with the positive terminal. The positive cable has a molded clamp that angles downward with just enough clearance to clear the sides of the original battery, and part of the clamp draps over both the end and side of the battery corner. The original's posts are set in, on center, 1-1/2" from the side and 1" from the end of the battery compared to the 2-1/4" setbacks for the Optima.

Are there kits or other simple modifications to solve these problems?"

Have any other M-Class owners replaced your vehicles' battery with something other than the Mercedes battery from a dealer?

Jim W.
wwhopper
10-29-2004, 06:10 AM
Why use a different battery on a Benz than the Benz battery?

Major deduction in points in Concours for a non-Benz battery!
Walrath
10-30-2004, 04:02 PM
Not trying to be argumentative but our M-Class isnÕt used in shows, and I have in interest in the Optima battery, plus our nearest dealer is a couple of hours away. I like the reports I have gotten from people who have Optimas. If it were an issue with a future owner then I would reinstall an OEM battery and keep the Optima for something else. That is part of the reason I would not want to do structural modifications, such as holes, to be able to attach a replacement battery.

Warnings and Cautions: Mercedes-Benz

This is not a complete list of warnings and cautions. If you have any suggestions for warnings or cautions to add to this list, please feel free to post your own.

WARNINGS-

* Some repairs may be beyond your capability. If you lack the skills, tools and equipment, or a suitable workplace for any procedure described in this manual, we suggest you leave such repairs to an authorized dealer service department or other qualified shop.
* Do not re-use any fasteners that are worn or deformed in normal use. Many fasteners are designed to be used only once and become unreliable and may fail when used a second time. This includes, but is not limited to, nuts, bolts, washers, self-locking nuts or bolts, circlips and cotter pins. Always replace these fasteners with new parts.
* Never work under a lifted car unless it is solidly supported on stands designed for the purpose. Do not support a car on cinder blocks, hollow tiles or other props that may crumble under continuous load. Never work under a car that is supported solely by a jack. Never work under the car while the engine is running.
* If you are going to work under a car on the ground, make sure that the ground is level. Block the wheels to keep the car from rolling. Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal (ground strap) to prevent others from starting the car while you are under it.
* Never run the engine unless the work area is well ventilated. Carbon monoxide kills.
* Rings, bracelets and other jewelry should be removed so that they cannot cause electrical shorts, get caught in running machinery, or be crushed by heavy parts.
* Tie long hair behind your head. Do not wear a necktie, a scarf, loose clothing, or a necklace when you work near machine tools or running engines. If your hair, clothing, or jewelry were to get caught in the machinery, severe injury could result.
* Do not attempt to work on your car if you do not feel well. You increase the danger of injury to yourself and others if you are tired, upset or have taken medication or any other substance that may keep you from being fully alert.
* Illuminate your work area adequately but safely. Use a portable safety light for working inside or under the car. Make sure the bulb is enclosed by a wire cage. The hot filament of an accidentally broken bulb can ignite spilled fuel, vapors or oil.
* Catch draining fuel, oil, or brake fluid in suitable containers. Do not use food or beverage containers that might mislead someone into drinking from them. Store flammable fluids away from fire hazards. Wipe up spills at once, but do not store the oily rags, which can ignite and burn spontaneously.
* Always observe good workshop practices. Wear goggles when you operate machine tools or work with battery acid. Gloves or other protective clothing should be worn whenever the job requires working with harmful substances.
* Greases, lubricants and other automotive chemicals contain toxic substances, many of which are absorbed directly through the skin. Read the manufacturer's instructions and warnings carefully. Use hand and eye protection. Avoid direct skin contact
* Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal (ground strap) whenever you work on the fuel system or the electrical system. Do not smoke or work near heaters or other fire hazards. Keep an approved fire extinguisher handy.
* Friction materials (such as brake pads or shoes or clutch discs) contain asbestos fibers or other friction materials. Do not create dust by grinding, sanding, or by cleaning with compressed air. Avoid breathing dust. Breathing any friction material dust can lead to serious diseases and may result in death.
* Batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas during charging. Keep sparks, lighted matches and open flame away from the top of the battery. If hydrogen gas escaping from the cap vents is ignited, it will ignite gas trapped in the cells and cause the battery to explode.
* Connect and disconnect battery cables, jumper cables or a battery charger only with the ignition switched off. Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
* Do not quick-charge the battery (for boost starting) for longer than one minute. Wait at least one minute before boosting the battery a second time.
* Do not allow battery charging voltage to exceed 16.5 volts. If the battery begins producing gas or boiling violently, reduce the charging rate. Boosting a sulfated battery at a high charging rate can cause an explosion.
* The air conditioning system is filled with chemical refrigerant, which is hazardous. The A/C system should be serviced only by trained technicians using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment, trained in related safety precautions, and familiar with regulations governing the discharging and disposal of automotive chemical refrigerants.
* Do not expose any part of the A/C system to high temperatures such as open flame. Excessive heat will increase system pressure and may cause the system to burst.
* Some aerosol tire inflators are highly flammable. Be extremely cautious when repairing a tire that may have been inflated using an aerosol tire inflator. Keep sparks, open flame or other sources of ignition away from the tire repair area. Inflate and deflate the tire at least four times before breaking the bead from the rim. Completely remove the tire from the rim before attempting any repair.
* Some cars are equipped with a supplemental restraint system (SRS), that automatically deploys airbags and pyrotechnic seat belt tensioners in the event of a frontal or side impact. These are explosive devices. Handled improperly or without adequate safeguards, they can be accidently activated and cause serious injury.
* The ignition system produces high voltages that can be fatal. Avoid contact with exposed terminals and use extreme care when working on a car with the engine running or the ignition switched on.
* Place jack stands only at locations specified by manufacturer. The vehicle lifting jack supplied with the vehicle is intended for tire changes only. A heavy duty floor jack should be used to lift vehicle before installing jack stands. See 010 General.
* Battery acid (electrolyte) can cause severe burns. Flush contact area with water, seek medical attention.
* Aerosol cleaners and solvents may contain hazardous or deadly vapors and are highly flammable. Use only in a well ventilated area. Do not use on hot surfaces (engines, brakes, etc.).
* Do not remove coolant reservoir or radiator cap with the engine hot. Danger of burns and engine damage.

CAUTIONS-

* If you lack the skills, tools and equipment, or a suitable workshop for any procedure described in this manual, we suggest you leave such repairs to an authorized dealer or other qualified shop.
* Before starting a job, make certain that you have all the necessary tools and parts on hand. Read all the instructions thoroughly, and do not attempt shortcuts. Use tools appropriate to the work and use only replacement parts meeting original specifications. Makeshift tools, parts and procedures will not make good repairs.
* Use pneumatic and electric tools only to loosen threaded parts and fasteners. Never use these tools to tighten fasteners, especially on light alloy parts. Always use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners to the tightening torque specification listed.
* Be mindful of the environment and ecology. Before you drain the crankcase, find out the proper way to dispose of the oil. Do not pour oil onto the ground, down a drain, or into a stream, pond or lake. Dispose of in accordance with Federal, State and Local laws.
* The control module for the anti-lock brake system (ABS) cannot withstand temperatures from a paint-drying booth or a heat lamp in excess of 203­°F (95­°C) and should not be subjected to temperatures in excess of 185­°F (85­°C) for more than two hours.
* Before doing any electrical welding on cars equipped with ABS, disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal (ground strap) and the ABS control module connector.
* Always make sure ignition is off before disconnecting battery.
* Label battery cables before disconnecting. On some models, battery cables are not color coded.
* Disconnecting the battery may erase fault code(s) stored in control module memory. Check for fault codes prior to disconnecting the battery cables.
* If a normal or rapid charger is used to charge battery, the battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle in order to avoid damaging paint and upholstery.
* Do not quick-charge the battery (for boost starting) for longer than one minute. Wait at least one minute before boosting the battery a second time.
* Connect and disconnect a battery charger only with the battery charger switched off.
* Sealed or "maintenance free" batteries should be slow-charged only, at an amperage rate that is approximately 10% of the battery's ampere-hour (Ah) rating.
* Do not allow battery charging voltage to exceed 16.5 volts. If the battery begins producing gas or boiling violently, reduce the charging rate. Boosting a sulfated battery at a high charging rate can cause an explosion.

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