How to choose: Car batteries comparison
Most aftermarket batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies. Johnson Controls, for example, supplies more than half of the U.S. market’s batteries. But they’re sold under various names and are built to the specifications of retailers, so performance can vary.

Make sure you get the right size and design for your vehicle (see Select the right size battery for your car). We found in our car batteries comparison that the wrong size might not fit securely or provide sufficient power. If the terminals are in the wrong place, your car’s cables might not reach. Check your owner’s manual or an in-store fit guide.

Consider maintenance
With a maintenance-free or sealed battery, you don’t have to check or refill the electrolyte levels. While most have a flat top, some batteries with caps also are claimed to be maintenance-free.

While manufacturers claim that AGM batteries are safer, they cost more than conventional batteries that perform almost as well or better in our car batteries comparison. It might make sense to consider a top-scoring AGM battery only if your car’s design makes the battery difficult to reach.

Consider your priorities
Choose a battery that fits your climate and driving conditions. A model that did well in our battery-life testing, for example, is critical if you live in a warmer climate. Frequent high temperatures are very tough on batteries, increase corrosion of plates, and more quickly vaporize the electrolyte that is needed for current. Long life is also important if you make many short trips that don’t allow much time for recharging.

Along with good life-testing performance, choose a battery that scored well in our CCA and reserve-capacity testing. Most products in our car batteries comparison have proved to be at least adequate in both of those tests.

Fresh is best
All batteries lose strength over time, even when idle. So choose one no more than six months old. Most have a shipping code on the case. Some use a letter for the month (“A” for January) and a number for the year (“8” for 2008); others use a numeric date.

A handle comes in handy
A plastic loop makes it easier to lift and carry batteries, which weigh about 40 pounds.

Dispose of your old battery safely
A battery’s toxic lead and acid can easily be recycled, and most retailers will dispose of the old one for you. You might pay a charge that’s refunded if you bring in the old battery after installing the new one.

Automotive batteries come in many shapes and sizes, but their operating principles are remarkably similar. In this Tech Center installment, we'll look at the basic automotive battery. Then we'll close by discussing ways to maintain your battery to ensure a long life.

The modern automotive battery is a lead-acid storage design. In short, it's an electrochemical device that converts chemical energy into electrical energy. When the battery is placed under a load, such as when the ignition is switched on, the device converts stored chemicals into electricity, and the current flows through the wires to its destination.

A standard 12-volt, lead-acid battery is made up of six cells connected in series. Each cell produces approximately two volts.

The cells are filled with an electrolyte. An electrolyte is an ionized bath -- in this case, sulfuric acid (H2SO4) diluted with water -- that generates an electrical current when called upon.

Each cell also contains plates (grids of active material), which are both positive and negative. Typically, the positive plates contain lead dioxide (PbO2), while the negative plates are composed of straight lead (Pb).

The plates are formed into a plate group, which holds a number of plates of the same polarity (for instance, all positive or all negative). The like-charged plates are welded to a post strap. The plate groups are then alternated within the battery -- positive, negative, positive, negative. There is usually one extra set of negative plates to balance the charge. To ensure that the different plate groups don't touch each other, non-conductive sheets called separators are inserted between them.

The battery case, which holds all these components, is made from molded polypropylene.

A maintenance-free battery, similar in design to a conventional automotive battery, is really just a heavier-duty version of the same arrangement. Many of the components have thicker construction, and different, more durable materials are typically used. For example, the plate grids often contain calcium, cadmium or strontium, to reduce gassing (which causes water loss) and self-discharge. This design is called a lead-calcium battery. The heavier-duty parts ensure that fluid loss is kept to a minimum and that components have a much longer life, making it a closed system.

The charge of a conventional 12-volt automotive battery is actually 12.6 volts. This can vary slightly, depending on the concentration of the electrolyte in solution. Ideally, for optimum battery performance, the sulfuric acid/water bath should have a specific gravity of 1.265 at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Specific gravity refers to the weight of a solution, with water having a reference rating of 1.000. The electrolyte in an automotive battery is therefore just slightly over one-and-a-quarter times the weight of regular water.

Battery power rating is measured by two standards. The more popular of these, cold cranking power, determines the amount of current (amps) a battery delivers for 30 seconds at zero degrees Fahrenheit while maintaining a minimum terminal voltage of 7.2 volts. The higher the number, the stronger the battery. Think of those old Diehard commercials, with all those non-Sears batteries giving up the ghost in the cold and snow, and this will perhaps give you a visual image.

The second standard is called reserve capacity rating. This is a warm weather rating (80 degrees Fahrenheit), which estimates the amount of time it takes the terminal voltage of a fully charged battery to dip below 10.2 (or 1.7 volts per cell) at a continuous discharge rate of 25 amps. The rating is expressed in minutes. For example, a rating of 120 means the battery will run for two hours (120 minutes) before ceasing to function.

A battery has two main cycles, the charge and discharge cycles.

In the discharge cycle, a chemical reaction takes place inside the battery in which the lead (Pb) of the negative plates combines with the SO4 of the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate (PbSO4). In this cycle, the electrolyte becomes weaker -- specific gravity lessens -- and the positive and negative plates become more like one another. Since the voltage, or charge, of a battery depends on the difference between the two plate materials and the concentration of the electrolyte, and since this difference decreases during discharging, the battery loses power. To anyone who has sat in a non-starting car and cranked away as the battery grew weaker and weaker, this scenario will be immediately recognizable.

In the charge cycle, the reverse is true. Electrical current, generated by the car's alternator, passes through the plates, forcing SO4 back into the electrolyte bath and elevating specific gravity. Voltage increases.

Safety Precautions

Sulfuric acid is highly caustic. Caution should used when dealing with electrolyte or automotive batteries. Sulfuric acid can burn clothing and the skin and even cause blindness. There is even a slight danger of explosion. Most battery professionals wear gloves and goggles or a face shield when working.

If for some reason electrolyte gets on your clothes or body, it should immediately be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water. When working on a battery or handling sulfuric acid, here are some safety tips:

* Always wear goggles or a face shield.
* Use a lead-lined or nonmetallic container to hold electrolyte.
* Always pour acid slowly into water, not water into acid.
* Stir as you add small amounts of acid.
* Never lean over a battery when charging, testing, or jump-starting an engine.
* Always disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last.
* Charge batteries only in well-ventilated areas.
* Never charge or jump-start a frozen battery; let it warm to at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Speaking of charging, there are several different methods used to recharge a depleted battery. The most gentle of these is called trickle-charging. Other methods include quick-charging and slow-charging. See your battery's owner's manual to decide which method may work best for your situation, or talk to your mechanic.

One advantage of a manual transmission is the ability to start a vehicle with a depleted battery. If the charging system (alternator and voltage regulator) are in proper working condition, simply push-start the car and kick it over, then drive long enough to let the charging system do its work. A good half-hour drive should give it a solid charge.

Here are a few tips to quickly restore a battery using this method.

1. Drive at a constant speed (highway driving) versus stop-and go (city driving). This will give the alternator an opportunity to charge more evenly.
2. Turn off all accessories (radio, air conditioner, etc.).
3. If possible, drive during the day. Even headlights use power. Having them off increases the amount of electricity going to the battery.

Remember, this does not replace charging the battery. A car's alternator is not designed to fully restore a depleted battery, but rather to maintain a healthy one. As soon as possible, put your battery on a battery charger such as the Battery Tender, and a give it a full charge for a day or two.

http://www.batterytender.com/

If you have an automatic transmission, you can jump-start the car instead. If the charging system is in proper working condition, it will recharge quickly. Follow the same steps as above to ensure that the car won't need another jump, then, as soon as possible, have the battery fully charged by a mechanic or by yourself if you own a high-quality battery charger .

We've included an Edmunds.com link below as a refresher course on jump-starting.

How To: Jump-Start

Another tip: If parking a car for long periods of time (weeks or months), it's best to disconnect the battery to prevent discharging. Use a crescent or open-ended wrench to loosen the strap from the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the connector. Make sure the connector is tucked away from the terminal, where it cannot come into contact with the post.

Battery Maintenance

We promised a few maintenance tips on standard-duty batteries.

* Check the water level every couple of months. It should be just touching the bottom of the refill hole.

* Refill the battery, when needed, with distilled water. Don't use tap water, which produces corrosion on the terminals.

* Don't overfill the cells. Just to the bottom of the refill hole is perfect.

The following tips apply to all batteries, including maintenance-free.

* To ensure good connectivity, clean the terminals periodically with a wire brush.

* When removing a connector from a terminal, twist it from side to side and pull gently upward. Refrain from excessive tugging or prying.

* When reconnecting a connector to a terminal, seat it down firmly on the post. A few gentle whacks from a rubber mallet will do it. Don't overtighten and strip the nut.

* After securing the connector, coat the whole post with high-temperature grease. This will reduce corrosion and rust.

* If you keep having electrical problems (battery dies, car won't start, power is intermittent or weak), it's not necessarily the battery. It could be in the charging system, normally either a bad alternator or voltage regulator. A mechanic can test the system to isolate the problem.

These general maintenance tips will extend the life of your battery.

One final note. News has come to light recently that automotive manufacturers are experimenting with 36-volt batteries in prototype cars. Because of the increasing number of electrical gadgets finding their way into modern vehicles, it's likely we'll be seeing a more advanced electrical system in coming years.

How to Buy a Car Battery

Car batteries are essential to operate your vehicle. They start your engine and provide extra power to the ignition, lighting and accessories. They also give power to the electrical system of your vehicle when the charging system is not operational.

When considering a new battery, there are a few things you should keep in mind before purchasing: cold cranking amps (CCA), reserve capacity, and group size.
[edit]
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)

CCA is the measure of a battery’s ability to start your vehicle in cold weather conditions. The size of the battery CCA rating should meet or exceed the car’s OEM (original equipment manufacturer) cranking rate. Note: If you are not sure what this rating is, check out your owner’s manual. If you live in cold climates, it is best to get a car battery with a high CCA rating since a sluggish, chilled engine requires more power to start it up.
[edit]
Reserve Capacity

The reserve capacity is the number of minutes your car might run using the battery alone should your alternator fail. In technical terms, a fully charged battery runs at 25amps. If the voltage falls below 10.5 amps (the minimum needed to run your vehicle), you need a new battery.

Buy a car battery with the longest reserve capacity possible since you may need it in emergency situations when your vehicle has stalled or will not start.
[edit]
Group Size

This refers to the outside dimensions and placement of power terminals on the battery. Vehicle makes have different group sizes. Always choose size recommended by the car’s manufacturer.

Common sizes are:

* 75- for General Motors vehicles (GM)
* 65- works for large Ford, Lincoln/Mercury models
* 34- for all Chrysler vehicles
* 32 -is the right size for new Honda, Nissans and Toyota models

When in doubt about the proper size, check your owner’s manual or ask your mechanic during your next tune up or oil change.
[edit]
Types of Batteries

There are 2 types of car batteries: low maintenance (non-sealed) and maintenance-free batteries.

A maintenance-free battery in general has a longer operational life, faster recharging time, and longer shelf life. However, they are prone to failures (dead battery) due to shedding of an active plate material that weakens over time.

Low maintenance batteries are ideal for vehicles that are driven in hotter climates. Since the battery is not sealed, water can be added if needed.
[edit]
Other Car Battery Buying Tips

While learning how to buy a car battery, you may want to consider the following tips:

* Do not buy a car battery that has been on the store shelf for more than six months. The freshest batteries can be bought at Firestone, Goodyear, Pep Boys and Sears since they work with a lot of vehicles and offer installation. The date on the battery can be checked by looking at its case or attached label. The date is defined by a 2-digit code with one number and one letter. For instance, “A” would be January, “B” February, etc. The number following it shows the year. A “7” would be considered 2007.
* Avoid buying a battery at a gas station since they do not have the freshest batteries.
* Stores like Kmart, Target and Wal-Mart may have the lowest prices, but they do not offer any installation options.
* A car battery’s warranty can be determined by a set of 2 numbers listed on it. The most important number you need to remember is for the time allowed for its free replacement period. If the battery fails after this date, you will only get a pro-rated credit towards your new battery. The other number is the date for the total warranty period. When this date hits, your pro-rated credit is completely expired and you will no longer get any discount on a purchase of a new battery.
* The most popular car battery brands are Champion, Exide, Napa, Diehard, Duralast, Interstate Motorcraft and Everstart.

It is not hard to learn how to buy a car battery. Important things to consider are its CCA rating, reserve capacity and its group size. Also consider climate conditions, warranty, installation and pricing and you are sure to buy the best battery for your car.

What is the best car battery?

No such thing. 20yrs experience as mechanic.

Source(s):

According to consumer report and experience Napa has the best battery. That is the only battery brand I sell at my shops. They have a nation wide waranty program. Like all batteries they carry a waranty for free replacement for either 18 months or 24 months depending which one you get then the warranty is pro rated for 5 years. I think the last time I checked it was aroung 90 cents a month after the 24 months is up.

Sorry but there is a fourth battery manufacturer, Deka Batteries are made by the East Penn Mfg. Co. Lyon Station Pa. They make all batteries for Walmart, NAPA and Car Quest.

Johnson Controls makes Innerstate batteries as well as All Autozone batteries. Through a transitional period during the year 2007 they will have purchaced All of Delphi's battery businesses in the USA.

Dynacell Batteries are made in Bristal, PA. It's a division of the Deka company in lower south east PA. outside Philadelphia.

Add these companies to the list!

optima is the best overall battery but is very pricey $140 +, I just bought a WalMart EverStart MAXX for $63. Consumer Reports it is one of the highest rated battery. Also AC Delco 7yr is a great battery for about $100. Just depends on what you wanna pay.
Batteries are made by 3 companies Johnson Controls, Exide or Delphi

Research before making your purchase. Not all car batteries are equal. Check Consumer Reports for reviews on the most reliable battery to buy for your car.
Step2
Ask your local mechanic to recommend a reliable winter car battery for your car. Different makes and model cars require different batteries, and your mechanic knows your car.
Step3
Choose a battery based on the research and recommendations. Ask friends and family members if they every used this battery before. If so, what the performance was like.
Step4
Go to an automotive store to buy your winter car battery. Ask the sales representative if it sells many of this brand of batteries and if anyone has returned it�and why.
Step5
Locate the date on the battery itself that advises when the battery was shipped before buying. Don't buy a car battery that is more than six months old. Ask the sales representative to get another battery for you with a fresher date, if it's too old.
Step6
Check the warranty for the car battery you are choosing. Select the battery with the best warranty. A longer warranty indicates a more reliable car battery.
Step7
Buy the best car battery. Drive your car with the confidence that your battery can hold up to winter.

Totally forgot about Costco !! Eh, grabbed the Walmart Maxx battery yesterday for my Jeep Wrangler after the original battery started acting up after 7 years. Guess they're not rated very highly but wasn't in position to research too much. $65 for the 825 CCA, original was only 600 CCA. Guess the heats killing everyones battery's !

I will call Autozone tomorrow to see if in stock.

The Werker battery shows CCA 800 and while the others show CCA 850. Not a big deal?

The Werker battery runs $94.

The Diehard gold is $120.

The Duralast (Autozone) $84.

Thanks, for all the answers. Excellent help

3/14/2009

Just some follow-up on the battery incident.

First of all, the battery that was in my car was a Duralast 48-DL which has smaller dimensions and only 700 CCA. I uninstalled the battery and took the core to Autozone. There I retrieved the 49-DL as suggested above. The 49-DL is larger in size than the 48-DL and has 850 CCA instead of 700 CCA. The Autozone clerk said "I don't think you chose the right battery. Those two are different sizes." So, he check the computer to see what size was Autozone recommended. The computer said 48-DL!!! The clerk started to take the 49-DL back to the shelf and switch it out. I told him not to and I stuck to my guns and got the 49-DL. Upon arriving back to the car the 49-DL was bigger but fit the battery tray like a glove. Obviously, the increased CCA from 700 to 850 is just what the doctor ordered.

The 49-DL was definitely the right one despite the auto parts supply suggesting a different one.

Thanks guys, If not for the recommendations above I would have gotten the wrong one.

It's been almost 7 years, and my original battery got me through 140k miles on my 330i - one of the first to get off the boat in California in Sept 2000 (2001 model). This morning, it slow cranked on me. Uh oh! Battery death was approaching. Stranded at night in my work's parking lot, or worse a grocery store lot late at night with weirdo's lurking in the shadows looking at me as I sit helpless, or late in the morning for that important meeting - all these unpleasant stranding experiences flashed through my mind at once. Uuuhhhhhh!

What bothered me is not only the money that reputable BMW service garages charge, it's the inconvenience and time spent of dropping the car off and getting a ride, then picking it up. Oh, and on top of that, it's $200+ for any BMW garage to do anything simple like change the oil.

I wanted to try and do this myself and save time and money. It shouldn't be much more complicated than what I do every 1 or 2 years with my TV remote control, except at 46 pounds, maybe 1000x heavier.

I found BMW 3-series batteries almost non-existent at first from most places except dealers and good repair shops, but I would have to pay their labor. After some research, I found Batteries Plus carried an 'OEM' battery for $130 and an auto parts store called 'Autozone' carried a battery called 'Durlast 49-DL' for $85.

The OEM battery rated at 765 cca was warrantied for 18 months replacement, 56 months pro-rated. The Duralast 49-DL from Autozone was 24 month replacement/7 years prorated and 850 cca which represented a better value.

I normally like the idea of OEM parts, but the price+warranty difference seemed high and the several online forums reported good experiences with the 49-DL. I took off on my lunch hour and bought one at Autozone nearby and just put it in my trunk for swapping out later when I had more time and in the cooler evening. Glad I did what I did, as when I turned the key in the parking lot of Autozone in San Jose (Monterey Ave), the fateful 'sounds of silence' from the starter punctuated by the solenoid clicking. Wow, after the slow crank that morning, I could only manage 3 more starts a few hours apart before I entered battery Hell. Perfectly timed. Well, weirdo's or not outside, I gotta change it now.

I had no tools except the BMW field kit in the trunk lid. But, that's all it took to replace the battery. It only took 15-20 minutes. It fit perfectly in the compartment, with only 1/4-inch of extra clearance on top that easily adjusted with a screwdriver in 10 seconds on the top bracket adjustment and snuggly tightened/fastened it in. Even the red positive terminal shield from the old battery fit on the new battery. A small adapter and vent hose was provided with the battery that I connected. Even felt terminal pads came with it. The weight was much less a problem than I thought to lift out or into the compartment.

Just when I was wrapping up, an employee came out from Autozone and tried to offer help with tools, etc. I was very surprised at the offer - I thought he was trying to kick me out and yell at me with "Hey you! No repairs in the lot you moron!" Partly because of this, I decided to make a post of my experience so that others don't pay too much and give credit where it is due to the retailer which is hard to find these days.

The car started up without problems except the clock had to be reset - I then got my core fee of $12 back.

Autozone DOES NOT have this Duralast 49-DL listed in their computer for usage on a BMW - don't tell them your car make/model to search at first - ask for it by battery model # to see if they have it. Even so, they did warrantee it for use on my 330i and it fits in the 330i (E46) was without any questions - probably fits other BMW's as well, but check first. I would not hesitate to get a 49-DL again or recommend one.

- Saved in San Jose.
72mg4me@comcast.ne
11-10-2008, 11:14 PM
I just wanted to let you know how helpful your post was to me. My wife's 2002 330i has just turned 100K and we have now had it six plus years. I've never had a battery last more than 6 yrs., and although we haven't had any trouble yet, I'm getting a little nervous. AutoZone surfaced in the Seattle metro area about two years ago, and although I rarely patronize them, I will definately check them out on this issue. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Broken-wrench
11-14-2008, 12:24 PM
I live in the deserts of Arizona where cars eat batteries every 2 years. Go to Sears & get yourself the top of the line DieHard. I have one now that has gone 6 years with no trouble. I also use them in my Ford F250 Super Duty with the same results. I never worry about batteries with these units from Sears.
rdialber
11-23-2008, 09:59 AM
Anyone that can share some comments on older BMW's. I love the car (a 2002 BMW 330 cic. It has 84,000 miles on it and lately oil and power steering leaks. What is up with these cars? People tell me at this point a lot of repairs are in order. What do many of you experience? In the last 3 months I replaced: The power steering pressure hoses, the power steering cooling hoses, the two belts, power steering pulley, the oil gasket connection from the engine to the oil filter housing, and the oil pressure switch. I love the car and it is only a little over 6 years old. I want to keep it another 2 to 3 years at least. Can some of you older BMW owners tell me what you think? How long do you hang onto your cars?
drcharlie1
12-17-2008, 06:09 PM
Anyone with experience replacing the battery for a 2000 323iT? Can't find the model listed on Auto Zone site. Cheapest local quote just under $300.

Thanks,

Charlie
Bear
01-07-2009, 07:23 PM
Batteries are interesting cases. I bought the replacement for my '88 750il from Advance auto parts for about $77.00 (there batteries are made by Interstate) and there are only about three battery manufacturers in this country and they produce batteries under many labels.

I just did this exact same thing last week.

1. Autozone lists the 49-DL for $89.99 + core charge ($12). This is b/c later if you dispose of battery they need to spend $12 (who knows).
I told them I am tight of funds and another place sells it for $79.00.
They price-matched and I walked out the door paying $79.00 + tax and that is it.
2y full warranty then prorated.

*** Check the Date of mfg (stamped into the battery plastic casing), for ex, ....K08 stands for October 2008.

2. Get a Sharpie Black marker and mark on the battery the date of install and write on it 2y warranty/pro-rated b/c 2-3 years from now you may not remember all these facts.

3. Check water level before install. It is easier this way.
Put a reminder masking tape on your door sill: H2O added; Date etc. to remind you to check battery water once a year or so.

4. Tuck the ground wire with a small wire to keep it out of the way so the battery goes down smoother.

5. The Battery Hold Down Clip. Install exactly as shown, small end toward battery (see pic).

6. If you radio does NOT work after new battery install (happened to me),
Disconnect the ground cable for one minute, then re-connect it.
Don't ask me why, this is E39 electrical gremlin!

PS: Oh don't waste your time for write-up. It is too simple.

Sure, DISTILLED WATER Only.

Alright, if you wish, write a little DIY and post it in the DIY section.
There is a similar DIY here:
http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html

Good choice of using Autozone rather than Sears, Walmart.
This is b/c Autozone has a LARGE network in the US. So if you get stuck somewhere, you can get help easier.

Battery Replacement 49 or 94R
Normally a battery
"ages" as the active plate material sheds (or flakes off) due to the expansion and contraction that occurs during the discharge and recharge cycles.

Deep discharges, heat and vibration accelerate this "aging" process. Eventually, the sediment builds up and this can short the cell out.

Another major cause of faulty batteries is sulfation. When batteries are stored discharged or for over six months, lead sulfate makes the plates very hard and dense and the battery less capable or unable to be recharged. When the active material in the plates can no longer sustain a discharge current, then the battery "dies".

In a hot climate (the harshest environment for a battery), a recent survey of junk batteries revealed that the AVERAGE life of a good quality car battery was 37 months.

Slow cranking, especially on a cold day, is another good indication that your battery is going bad and it should be tested.

I'm writing this because today, I had to jump-start my 325i. I looked around these post and found mostly incomplete information. I knew I didn't want a Dealer battery, so I went searching. My research was on the E46 and I heard there is a different battery for the Convertible, so this may be incomplete.

The Battery Council International (BCI) sets the standard on batteries. They are divided up into group sizes by Dimension and OEM Cold Cranking Amps.

My local parts store (Advance) showed me 2 batteries that would fit my car and of course they wanted to sell me the most expensive one. Here is why I didn't listen to them.

Unless you are racing and are worried about weight or want a gel battery, the rule of thumb is like "D!ck Measuring". Bigger is better. Voltage on most of our cars is always going to be 12 Volts. More Amps is what we are looking for.

Buy the freshest and largest Reserve Capacity (RC), battery that will physically fit, with a Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) rating for your climate that meets or exceeds the car's Original Equipment Manufacturer's (OEM) cranking amp requirement.

Group size 94R is listed for most E46's.
Group size 49 is listed for some M3's.
Group size 92 is listed for some M3's and Convertible's.



I am unsure if the 92 battery is for an E46, the years matched in the parts book. The 92 battery is shorter.

The 49 battery is physically much bigger (length) and has a higher Cold Cranking Amps than the 94R. And guess what; it was also less expensive.

My advice for most E46's:
"Battery Warranties are just marketing"
"If it fits in the battery box use the Group size 49 Battery."

48 was also ok to replace my 94R
NAPA 7548 (group 48), fits fine. 12.1" x 6.9" x 7.6" top rated by Consumer Reports. $76.49 at NAPA. Dealer $180.

FAQs



Frequently Asked Questions


How does a battery work?
A battery stores energy in chemical form that can be released on demand as electricity. This electrical power is used by the cars ignition system for cranking the engine. The car's battery also may power the lights and other accessories. Should the alternator belt fail, the battery might also need to power the vehicle's entire electrical system for a short period of time.

What should I consider when buying a battery?
SIZE: What are the dimensions of your original battery?
POWER: What are the Cold Cranking Amps required to power your vehicle?
WARRANTY: Automotive batteries are backed by a warranty package. Chose what is right for your vehicle's needs.

When I am replacing my battery or cleaning the terminals, why is it important to remove the ground wire first?
Before you start, always check the type of grounding system the vehicle has. If you remove the positive connector first in a negative ground system, you risk the chance of creating a spark. That could happen if the metal tool you're using to remove the positive terminal connector comes in contact with any piece of metal on the car. If you are working near the battery when this occurs, it might create an ignition source that could cause the battery to explode. It's extremely important to remove the ground source first.

How can I tell if a battery is fresh?
You can usually find a small decal on the side of the battery container giving you the month and year the battery was shipped out of the plant. The letter corresponds with the month, starting with "A" for January, "B" for February, and so on. The number represents the year with "9" standing for 1999, "0" for 2000, and so on. A9, would be January, 1999. C0 would be March, 2000.( The letter "I" is skipped so the letter "M" would be December.)

What does CCA mean?
Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in the battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.

What are MCA or CA rates?
This is a rating used to describe the discharge load in amperes which a new, fully charged battery at 32 degrees F (0C), can continuously deliver for 30 seconds and maintain a terminal voltage equal or greater than 1.2 volts per cell. It is sometimes referred to as Marine Cranking Amps or Cranking Amps.

What is reserve capacity?
Reserve Capacity, (RC) is a battery industry rating, defining a battery's ability to power a vehicle with an inoperative alternator or fan belt. The rating is the number of minutes a battery at 80 degrees F can be discharged at 25 amps and maintain a voltage of 10.5 volts for a 12 volt battery. The higher the reserve rating, the longer your vehicle can operate should your alternator or fan belt fail.

What can excessive heat do to a battery?
Hot temperatures will deteriorate a battery's life quicker by evaporating the water from the electrolyte, and corroding and weakening the positive grids.

When my car won't start, how do I know for sure if my battery really needs to be replaced?
Many other problems can keep a car from starting, so you need to do some troubleshooting. Stores that sell batteries will often do battery testing free of charge, so that is a good first step. Check out other troubleshooting tips when you click on "Your car won't Start? on our home page.

How do I safely jumpstart my battery?
Check out "How to Jump Start a Battery" under Battery Basics on this site. An exercise lets you practice what to do.

Great post will help many people!!!


one thing though, my 98 needed the battery replaced. i replaced not to long ago and i believe it was original battery but, the thing is where the 13mm bolt is to hold the case is really rusted. im surprised i didnt break the but off. i had to spray some rust penetration stuff to get the nut loose. is there anyway i can get rid of the rust..i will try to post some pics tomorrow to show you what i am talking about. thanks in advance


GJ
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1998 ML320-275/70/16 BFG All Terrain T/A KO, 2005 headlights, 2005 taillights, 2004 MCS Unit,6000K HID headlights, blue laurel center caps, 2005 rear bumper..

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Old 06-03-2008, 12:44 AM #43 (permalink)
stillf1y
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Vehicle: 1998 ML320, 1987 560SL
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Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikki98 View Post
HOW DO REPLACE BATTERY FOR AN E CLASS 320 PLEASE HELP
your not exactly in the right room but im not so sure if the e320 is the same as a w163....dont know if much can help try the e class room they are more than happy to help you out...good luck


GJ
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:36 PM #44 (permalink)
ML430ROCKS
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Vehicle: 00 ML430 05 ML500
Location: MIAMI FLORIDA
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Is it possible to put another battery with two leads to not loose any memory while taking the old battery off. Meaning putting a battery on top of the manifold or where ever possible with a wire lead to the positve cable and another to the negative cable. This will maintain the memory while the old one is being replaced. Great thread, I had my wifes 03 S500 done by roadside assisatance and it was fair, $155.00 installed.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:48 PM #45 (permalink)
Gene Horr
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Sort of. The problem is that if you've lost a cell the old battery is now at 10V and may put quite a drain on the other one when connected.

There are devices sold specifically for maintaining power when changing the battery. This would be the best choice if you insist on doing it this way. Otherwise I would use a regulated supply limited to an amp or two.

IMO the best choice of all is just don't do it. Entering the radio code only takes a couple of seconds.
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:04 PM #46 (permalink)
ML430ROCKS
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Bought a battery today at Autozone, part number 49-DL for $84.99. Installed it in 25 minutes using only two sockets, a 13 for the battery support tray and a 10 for the battery connectors. I had just changed the battery on my 03 S500 as well and I felt that I just might as well change it on the ML430 because it is 5 years old already and felt a bit weak. It fires up real fast now compared to how it was with the old battery.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:26 AM #47 (permalink)
NCporsche
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Registered to retrieve the photos on the push and pull trick to get the battery out of a 2000 ML320.

Thanks.

NC
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:10 PM #48 (permalink)
moosetooth
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Vehicle: 99 ML320, 2000 ML320
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 5

I too appreciate the post! I never would have figured out how to remove the shroud (at least without breaking it. ) Many Thanks.

How to Take Care of Automotive Batteries

It's very important not to let corrosion set it in on your battery terminals. Once corrosion sets in, your car will randomly fail to start due to electrical contact being lost between battery and cable. Especially common with GM vehicles. Read on for more details.

 1. Go to the auto parts store, and acquire some battery terminal goo, the stuff that prevents corrosion. Usually comes with a new battery. Better yet, you can purchase some battery corrosion prevention spray.. does the same thing, easier to apply.
2. Remove any rubber or plastic covers off of the battery terminals. Not the posts on top, but the terminals on the side that the cables bolt on to.
3. Do you see any blue or white powder/corrosion forming anywhere? If no, put the covers back on and crack open a beer, you're done.
4. If yes, you see corrosion, then you've got work to do. Remove both battery terminals with a socket wrench. Please watch what you're doing here. Don't short circuit the red terminal to any metal part of the engine or your going to be sorry. Just be cool when you ratchet the wrench back and forth.
5. Get a wire brush and scrape off all the corrosion crud from the bolt, the cable assembly and the battery terminal itself. Get inside the threads of the battery female connector. Make real sure you get all the crud off the cable assy, including the connectors. I have had to cut off the rubber insulation so that I could get all the corrosion off. Just make sure to cut the rubber so that you can put it back on later. Tip - pour boiling water over the corrosion before starting any other cleaning - it will dissolve much of the deposits and wash them away. Wash down thoroughly with plenty of cold water afterwards.
6. Check again to make sure you've got every last bit of corrosion brushed off. The corrosion is battery acid that has reacted with the air and metal. If you don't get it off, it continues to react and cause problems. In fact some say it will slide down the cable assy insulation and force you to replace the whole assy at considerable cost.
7. Once everything's hunky dory and spotless, then spread the goo or spray all the mating surfaces completely.
8. Now you're ready to put it all together. Don't over tighten and strip the battery threads... it's only soft lead after all. Put the positive (red) on first, then the negative (black).

  Tips

* You may have to reset your clocks and radio presets, since all battery power was lost.
* If your car doesn't start after running fine just hours before, it may be this problem. Usually it happens with an older car with an older battery. Just putting in a new battery without cleaning the cable connectors corrosion sets you up for the same exact problem all over again! That corroded material just keeps eating away forever, if you don't get it all. Don't be lazy, do it right, and you should be good to go. A good dusting with baking soda occasionally, neutrulizes the battery acid. The red and green felt washers from the auto part store for post batteries are useful and help ID the polarity better.

# Watch out with sparks when attaching the positive terminal back... if you have an old battery that is leaking hydrogen gas from the cells, then a spark might cause a little flash-bang, and that won't do your eyebrows any good. Make sure there is plenty of ventilation, and as always wear good eye protection during the whole job.
# Do not wear a watch especially with a metal strap or bracelet while working on a battery. Shorting the positive terminal to ground or chassis anywhere with your watch strap will cause it to become red hot very quickly and badly burn your wrist at the very least. This applies also to any other metal jewelry such as rings etc.
# Do not touch the white powder or corrosion with bare hands. The battery acid can and will start eating through your skin. If you do touch it be sure to wash your hands right away - Once you feel it, it's often too late.

The car battery is the life of your car. You will not be able to start the car if the battery malfunctions in any way. Battery malfunctions are a very common problem faced by most car owners. However if you keep a regular update about the health of your battery then you are guaranteed a smooth start and hassle-free driving always.

Here are a few useful guiding tips as to how you can successfully go about taking care of your car battery that will add longevity to the battery and ensure hassle-free start-ups!

You must avoid keeping the car lights/headlights on for a long time, turn off the car air conditioning when not needed, restrain from unnecessary honking. All this and several other charging system problems put too much strain on the battery power that eventually leads to weakening of your car batteries.

Make sure that there is no rusting/corrosion on your battery terminals. This leads to frequent problems in start-ups as a result of loss of electrical contact between the battery and electrical cables. So you need to keep in stock those battery corrosion prevention sprays and glues that prevent rusting of car batteries, the root cause of all battery related problems. However, if you detect any kind of bluish green or white powdery layers forming anywhere around the battery terminals then you have to take immediate action to prevent further damage.

You’ve got to clean away all the formed rust carefully from the battery terminals without damaging the battery or causing short-circuits. You must keep a wire brush handy for scraping off all corrosion from every nook and corner of your rusted battery.

A useful and proven tip that makes your job easier and cleans the car batteries more thoroughly is you can pour boiling hot water over the corroded parts of the battery prior to cleaning. This actually helps to dislodge chunks of rust deposits facilitating easier cleaning of the car batteries.

To enhance the output of your car batteries as well as add a few more extra years to its average life span you can install greater number of and/or larger sized plates in the battery.

It is always advised that you buy those types of car batteries only that is best suited in the condition, read weather conditions (hot/cold climates) in which your vehicle is frequently/continuously exposed.

So to avoid troubles in your car batteries and maximize their efficiency you must always take into consideration the cold cranking amps (CCA) and the reserve capacity (RC) ratings while purchasing new car batteries.

You must also keep in mind that most car batteries are 12-volt lead-acid type batteries that are filled with a highly corrosive lead and acid electrolytes and inflammable gases such as hydrogen are released when the batteries are recharged. So while cleaning and maintaining your car batteries take proper safety measures such as wearing rubber gloves, eye protection gears, etc. to avoid injuries and accidents.

The battery terminals must be provided with insulating caps to prevent accidental contact of your car battery wires with any metal part of your car such as the bonnet. This leads to short-circuit followed by fire/explosion.

Prior to handling your car batteries remove all kinds of metal accessories from your body such as watches with metal straps, metal jewelries like bracelets, bangles, rings, etc. to prevent short-circuit if these items by chance touch the positive terminal of the battery.

Last but not the least you must dispose old worn-out batteries with great care. The toxic components of car batteries can damage the environment. Car batteries with their lead and plastic components can be easily recycled so you can exchange old car batteries with new ones instead of disposing them off carelessly.

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